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GEOGRAPHIC 
MAGAZINE 


JUNE, 1925 


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CONTENTS 


A Caravan Journey Through Abyssinia 


With 47 Illustrations HARRY V. HARLAN 


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Be 


Black-Headed Gulls in London—Aces of 
Aviation 
With 16 Illustrations A. H. HALL 


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iE 
E 

71 
F 


To Seek the Unknown in the Arctic 


With 2 Illustrations 


pAyoy i) 


The “Bowdoin” in North Greenland 


With 49 Illustrations DONALD B. MacMILLAN 


PUBLISHED BY THE 
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 
HUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL 
WASHINGTON, D.C. 


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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 


GEOGRAPHIC ADMINISTRATION BUILDINGS 
SIXTEENTH AND M STREETS NORTHWEST, WASHINGTON, D. C. 


GILBERT GROSVENOR, President 
JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE, Vice-President 
JOHN JOY EDSON, Treasurer 
BOYD TAYLOR, Assistant Treasurer 


HENRY WHITE, Vice-President 
O. P. AUSTIN, Secretary 
GEO, W. HUTCHISON, Associate Secretary 
EDWIN P. GROSVENOR, General Counsel 


FREDERICK V. COVILLE, Chairman Committee on Research 


EXECUTIVE STAFF OF THE 


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


GILBERT GROSVENOR, epitor 


JOUN OLIVER LA GORCE, 


RALPH A. GRAVES 
Assistant Editor 


WILLIAM J, SHOWALTER 
Assistant Editor 


Associate Editor 


FRANKLIN L, FISHER 
Chief of Illustrations Division 


J. R. HILDEBRAND, Chief of School Service 


BOARD OF TRUSTEES 


CHARLES J. BELL 
President American Security and 
‘Trust Company 


WILLIAM HOWARD TAFT 
Chief Justice of the United States 


CHARLES G. DAWES 
Vice-President of the 
States 


United 


GRANT SQUIRES 


JOHN JOY EDSON 
Chairman, of the Board, Wash- 
ington Loan & Trust Company 


DAVID FAIRCHILD 
In Charge of Agricultural Ex- 
plorations, U. S. Department 
of Agriculture 


C. HART MERRIAM 
Member National Academy of 
Sciences 


O. P. AUSTIN 
Statistician 


GEORGE R. PUTNAM 
Commissioner U. S. Bureau of 
Lighthouses 


GEORGE SIIRAS, 30 
Formerly Member U. S$, Con- 
gress, Faunal Naturalist, and 
Wild-game Photographer 


E, LESTER JONES 
Director U. S$, Coast and Geo- 
detic Survey 


Military 


Cc, M. CHESTER 
Rear Admiral U, S. Navy, For- 
merly Supt. U. S. 


Servatory 


Botanist, U. 
Agriculture 


Star 


Intelligence Division, 
General Staff, New York 


J. HOWARD GORE 
Prof. Emeritus Mathematics, The 
George Washington University 


FREDERICK V. COVILLE 
S. Department of 


RUDOLPH KAUFFMANN 
Managing Editor 


JOHN FOOTE, M, D. 
Professor of Pediatrics, George- 
town University 


JOHN OLIVER LA GORCE 
Associate Editor 
graphic Magazine 


JOHN BARTON PAYNE 


Chairman American Red Cross 


A. W.. GREELY 
Neulou Explorer, Major General 
Army 
GILBERT GROSVENOR 
Editor of National Geographic 
Magazine 


GEORGE OTIS SMITH 
Director U, S. Geological Survey 


O. H. TITTMANN 
MANN. Formerly Superintendent U- 
The Evening Coast and Geodetic Survey 
HENRY WHITE 
Member American Peace  Com- 
mission, Formerly U. S$. Am- 
bassador to France, Italy, etc. 


STEPHEN T. MATHER 
Director National Park Service 


National Geo- 


ORGANIZED FOR “THE INCREASE AND DIFFUSION OF GEOGRAPHIC KNOWLEDGE” 


TO carry out the purposes for which it was 
founded thirty-seven years ago, the National 
Geographic Society publishes this Magazine. All re- 
ceipts are invested in the Magazine itself or expended 
directly to promote geographic knowledge. 


ARTICLES and photographs are desired. 


For material which the Magazine can use, 
generous remuneration is made. Contributions should 
be accompanied by an addressed return envelope and 
postage. 


IMMEDIATELY after the terrific eruption 


of the world’s largest crater, Mt. Katmai, in 
Alaska, a National Geographic Society expedition was 
sent to make observations of this remarkable phenom- 
enon. Four expeditions have followed and the ex- 
traordinary scientific data resulting given to the world. 
In this vicinity an eighth wonder of the world was 
discovered and explored—“The Valley of Ten Thou- 
sand Smokes,” a vast area of steaming, spouting 
fissures. As a result of The Society's discoveries this 
area has heen created a National Monument by proc- 
lamation of the President of the United States. 


AT an expense of over $50,000 The Society 
sent a notable series of expeditions into 
Peru to investigate the traces of the Inca race. Their 


discoveries form a large share of our knowledge of a 
civilization waning when Pizarro first set foot in Peru. 


THE Society also had the honor of sub- 


scribing a substantial sum to the expedition 
of Admiral Peary, who discovered the North Pole. 


NOT long ago The Society granted $25,000, 
and in addition $75,000 was given by individual 
members to the Government when the congressional 
apeiaky eden for the purpose was insufficient, and 
the finest of the giant sequoia trees of California 
were thereby saved for the American people. 


THE Society is conducting extensive explora- 


tions and excavations in northwestern New 
Mexico, which was one of the most densely populated 


areas in North America before Columbus came, a 
region where prehistoric peoples lived in vast com- 
munal dwellings and whose customs, ceremonies, and 
name have been engulfed in an oblivion. 


THE Society also is maintaining expeditions 
in the unknown area adjacent to the San 
Juan River in southeastern Utah, and in Yunnan, 
Kweichow. and Kansu, China—all regions virgin to 
scientific study. 








All rig 


ts reserved. 


Copyright, 1925, by National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C., in the United States and Great Britain. 
| righ r Entered at the Post Office at Washington, D. C., as Second-Class Mail Matter. 
mailing at special rate of postage provided for in Sec, 1103, Act of October 3, 1917, authorized July 1, 1918, 


Acceptance for 











TIFFANY & CoO. 


JEWELERS 


()UALITY 


FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION 


INQUIRIES INVITED 


Hirth AVENUE & 37 STREET 
New YORK 























C3 


Of all travel possibilities, the trip which encircles the globe 
is incomparably the most memorable and interesting. 


° . 
Raymond-Whitcomb Cruise 
(Sailing October 10, 1925) 

Visiting Australia, New Zealand, New Guinea and Tasmania 
for the first time in cruise history. 
This cruise is more comprehensive than any cruise ever run—in 
fact the itinerary was devised with the idea that a trip around 
the world is rarely repeated and that nothing of prime interest 
on the other side of the world should be missed. 
Glamourous Japan, venerable China, the strangely mingled 
Philippines, Java and the Malay States, splendid India and 
monumental Egypt —these are the countries usually visited. 
And to these Raymond-Whitcomb has added one-quarter of the 
Eastern World—New Guinea, with its stalwart savages; New 
Zealand, of renowned scenery; Tasmania the holiday land of a 
continent; and Australia, the most vital of the younger nations. 
Our Cruise-Ship—the brand new Cunarder ‘“‘Carinthia”—of 
20,000 tons—has over 100 single rooms, some eighty rooms con- 
necting with private bath, hot and cold running water in allrooms 
—swimming pool, squash court, gymnasium, elevators— every 
convenience and luxury necessary for such a voyage. 
Rates $2,000 and upwards 


Vacation Cruises to Europe 


Mediterranean Cruise—Sailing June 27 and visiting France, 
Italy, Greece, Spain and the Near East. Arriving at Cherbourg 
and Southampton August 18. Rates $675 and up. 
Midnight Sun Cruise—Sailing June 30 for Iceland, the North 
Cape and the Fjords of Norway. Arriving at Cherbourg and 
Southampton July 30. S.S. “Franconia.” Rates $725 and up. 


Winter Mediterranean Cruise 
(Sailing January 28, 1926) 
This cruise covers the entire Mediterranean from the Straits of 
Gibraltar to the Bosphorus visiting about thirty ports and in- 
land cities such as Funchal, Nice, Monte Carlo, Tunis, Palermo, 
Alexandria, Cairo, Jerusalem, Haifa, Bethlehem, Beyrouth, Con- 
stantinople, Athens, Cattaro, Venice, Syracuse, Naples, Pompeii, 
Sorrento, Capri and Marseilles. 
The Cruise-Ship is the popular Cunarder “Samaria.” 
Rates $925 and upwards. 
Send for Booklets and Ship plans 


RAYMOND & WHITCOMB CO. 


26 Beacon St. Boston 


























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complete. The Radiola Super-Heterodyneneeds no an- 
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brings in the stations—at home—outdoors—anywhere! 





The Radiola Super-Heterodyne is the popular set of 
the year—for tone quality—and for big performance. 


i , when : Si 3 
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suitcase of genu- —ready to put new joy into every summer lark! 


ineblack cowhide 
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about 38 pounds. in the back for 
With six Radio- small batteries. 
trons UV-199— Bealyte) saErOnt 
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~~ 


132 Days 
60 Cities 
14 Countries 


From NEw YORK 


November 25 


Los ANGELES Dee. 11 

SAN FRANCISCO Dec. 14 

Returning to NEW YORK 

April 6, 1926 
Itinerary 

Havana, Balboa, Panama, 
Los Angeles, San Francisco, 
Hilo, Honolulu, Yokohama, 
Tokyo, Nikko, Kamakura, 
Kobe, Nara, Kyoto, The In- 
land Sea, Shanghai, Hong- 
kong, Macao, Manila, Bata- 
via, Singapore, Diamond 
Harbor, Calcutta, Colombo, 
Bombay, Port Sudan, Port 
Tewfik, Cairo, Alexandria, 
Naples, Monaco, Gibraltar. 














ae 


Largest and finest liner 
ever to citcle the Globe 


When the Belgenland sails westward from New York in 
November she follows warm sunshine and balmy weather 
*round the world. She moves from one fascinating port and 
one interesting country to another on a carefully arranged 
schedule that brings her to each at the height of its activity 
and charm. A happy opportunity is afiorded for convenient 
stop-overs in Europe for the Spring and early Summer. 


The American Express Company 


with its intimate knowledge of the foreign countries visited 
and its complete facilities for most advantageous guidance, 
cooperates with the Red Star Line to make this a world 
cruise of extraordinary appeal. 


The Belgenland 


embodies the most advanced thought in ocean travel com- 
fort. Her cuisine, service and general atmosphere are 
Continental, but she is truly American in her complete 
provisions for amusements and healthful recreation on broad 
deck spaces. 


RED STAR LINE 


INTERNATIONAL MERCANTILE MARINE COMPANY 
In Cooperation with 
American Express Company 
Write for profusely illustrated booklet which answers every ques- 
tion on world cruises. Address Red Star Line, No. 1 Broadway, 
NewYork; American Express Company, 65 Broadway, NewYork, 
or other offices or agencies of either company. 





EL GIN -<- 
















































































© E. N. W. Co. 


DOES THE WATCH DATE THE FASHION 
OF THE MAN? 


Beau BruMMEL maintained that a 
man’s style is rated by the details 


of his dress. 


Thus, his time-piece is as impor- 
tant as his tailoring in establishing 


his claim to correct 
taste. An old fashioned 
watch suggests an old 
fashioned wearer—lag- 
ging behind the thought 
and method of his time. 

But still more impor- 
tant, a cumbersome de- 
sign very often means 
lumbersome service. For 


4 






1 2 PR 
un Z 


THE CORSICAN ELGIN 


With famous Lord Elgin movement 
White or green gold case. 


$175 


PEG IN 


in watches, as in motor cars, efh- 
ciency often increases as ugliness 
goes. 

That is why Etorn, for sixty 
years the world’s standard in watch 


accuracy, is equally the 
world’s most beautiful 
watch. In its greater 
beauty lies greater util- 
ity. An ultra accoutre- 
ment of fashion, it is 
equally the sturdiest, 
truest and most depend- 
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instruments, 





THE+WATCH+WORD-FOR-ELEGANCE-& EFFICIENCY 


NATIONAL+:WATCH+s 


COMPANY ELGIN 


“IT LLINOTS 


CThe 


The Peregrinations of the Pecks 


At one of the New Mexican 
pueblos Jim finds an opportunity 
to play good Samaritan. With 
the common sense characteristic 
of a man who carries fire, life and 
accident insurance, he started out 
on the trip with Spares. As 
there seems, ho: » to be small 
chance that he will need either, he 
gladly lends one to a fellow mo- 
torist who has spent an hour in 
the broiling Southavestern sun 
trying to repair a blown-out shoe, 
and who has just discovered that, 
fortunately, his rims are the same 
size as the Pecks’, It looks as 
though Jim re making another 
Kelly customer, 

















KELLY FLEAIBLE CORD 





TH E construction of the Kelly Flexible 

Cord is different from that of any 
other tire on the market. It is this dif- 
ference—the building of the bead as an 
integral part of the tire instead of as a 
separate unit fastened in—that for the first 
time makes possible a tire that is doth 
rugged and flexible. The ruggedness 
means mileage. The flexibility means 
easy riding. That is why the Flexible 
Cord is by far the best tire Kelly has ever 
built. 


KELLY~SPRINGFIELD TIRES 


ONLY PACKARD CAN BUILD A PACKARD 






















































































































































































THE PACKARD SIX SEVEN-PASSENGER SEDAN LIMOUSINE IS ILLUSTRATE 





a6 AT DETROIT 





PRECISION IS PROTECTED 


In Packard cars precision is fully pro- There is no drudgery or uncertainty in 
tected throughout the life of the car. _ the lubrication of Packard cars. 


However finely builtno carcanremain In the chassis—the pull of a plunger, a 
precision-built in the hands of the aver- _ second of time, and oil is on the way 
age owner unless it is lubricated regu- to the 45 points requiring regular 
larly and completely. attention. 


And, so long as motor car lubrication In the motor—the oil rectifier, auto- 
entails drudgery or the giving up of matic in action, insures that every drop 
the car at inconvenient times, cars will of oil remains pure oil. 


not be lubricated. a 
The result—long life of parts, quiet- 


Which means, precision destroyed and ness of operation, and peace of mind 
then, the opening of pocketbooks. for the owner. 


Packard Six and Packard Eight both are furnished in ten body types, four open 
and six enclosed. A liberal monthly payment plan makes possible the immediate 
enjoyment of a Packard, purchasing out of income instead of capital. 


PACKARD 


ASK THE MAN WHO OWNS ONE 


















You Are Served Best 
if you 


Follow The Man From Cook's ! 


THE 
CRUISE 
SUPREME 


Asound the World in solid comfort and luxury on a steamer 
especially equipped for these cruises; cuisine and service unsurpass- 
able; a most complete itinerary, one that obviates dreary, monotonous 
long voyages between points of interest; it includes for the first time in 
the history of World Cruises, Bangkok, the capital of Siam. Each 
country is visited at a season when climatic conditions are at their best, 
and back of all stands our great organization with its long experience and 
unique world-wide resources. 

















As before the most notable World Cruise of next season will be Cook's Cruise: 


AROUND THE WORLD 


on the renowned Cunard Cruising Steamer 


“FRANCONIA” 
again specially chartered by us to sail Eastward from New York 


Jan. 14 to May 24 


An entirely new and most interesting 


GUIDE BOOK 


dealing with all parts of the world visited by this Cruise has been 
prepared and will be sent on request to all who may be con- 
sidering such a trip. 


THOS. COOK & SON 


NEW YORK 


Philadelphia Chicago 


St. Louis San Francisco 


Boston 


Los Angeles Toronto Montreal 


Vancouver 


Make Your Reservations Early 


FACTS ABOUT A FAMOUS FAMILY 


Part of a convoy of General Motors 
cars en route from Beirut to Bagdad. 
Speed as high as 70 miles an hour is 
attained during the 600 mile trip. 


Beirut to Bagdad 


It used to take about four weeks to 
travel from London to Bagdad. To- 
day, through the service of General 
Motors cars, you can make the trip 
in eight days. 


Across the Syrian Desert—between 
Beirut on the Mediterranean and 
Bagdad in Persia — convoys of 
Buicks and Cadillacs are carrying 
passengers and mails on a regular 


schedule. Though heavily laden, 
they cover 600 miles of sandy 
waste in less than 24 hours of 
running—most of the trip at rac- 
ing speed. 


The stamina of General Motors 
cars and trucks has led to their 
selection wherever the going is 
hardest. You will find them in 
every country of the world. 


GENERAL MOTORS 


Buick + Capmiac + CHEvroteT + OAKLAND 
Otpsmosi.z + GMC Trucks 


General Motors trucks and Deleo-Light products may be purchased on the GMAC Payment Plan. 
Insurance service furnished by General Exchange Corporation. 





Two Cruises 


by the Queen 
of Cruising 
) Soran ps 


Operated under our 
own management, 
afloat and ashore. 


s. 5. RESOLUTE 


From New York, Oct. 24, 1925 
From San Francisco, Feb. 9, 1926 


Rates $1500 up including shore excursions 





Send for details of cruise itinerary 


UNITED AMERICAN LINES 


HARRIMAN LINE 


35-39 Broadway, New York — 177 No. Michigan Ave., Chicago — 230 South 15th St., Philadelphia 
131 State St., Boston — 87 St. James St., Montreal — 574 Market St., San Francisco — or local agents 














| =) 
E When Galli-Curct sang to more than 20,000 people at an open-air evening concert 


in the heart of the beautiful Hollywood Hills 


Balmy Nights 


of restful pleasure follow days of exercise and 
activity in your finest summer playground 











A hush settles over a great audience. Thousands of 
tongues are stilled by the majestic beauty of the night. 

You, among them, with neighbors on every side, feel 
that joyful sense of solitude which gorgeous Nature 
alone can bring. 

The heavens, studded with stars, form a soft, welcome 
canopy. On every hand are uneven horizons where the 
hills, painted in night’s quiet colors, meet the sky. 

A faint fragrant breeze stirs lazily about. 

Then as though from the distance of the stars comes a 
lilting melody. With closed eyes you listen, spirit per- 
fectly attuned, seeing the lovely pictures which the music 
paints for you. 


And Other Nights 


Such isa night in the Hollywood Bowl, where circling 
hills echo back the harmonies of a symphony orchestra. 

It’s not remarkable that the night is cool, For all 
nights in Southern California are cool. And the days 
are just right for outdoor recreation. 

The U.S. Weather Bu- 
reau’s figures for forty-sev- 
en years—average mean 
temperatures taken in a 






















All-Year Club of Southern California 


Dept. 806, Chamber of Commer 


1am planning to visit Southern 
California this summer. 
send me your free booklet 
‘outhern California All the 


which I haye checked, 


central (inland) city in this section—show 47 Junes, 66 
degrees; 47 Julys, 70; 47 Augusts, 71; 47 Septembers, 69. 

What climate could invite a finer summer’s rest? 
Outdoors every day, for summer here has another rare 
advantage—it is the rainless season. 


Days of Sport 

Each morning you choose your sport for the day. Or 
you may combine many. All are here. 

You hike, fish, sail, ride, motor over smooth boule- 
vards, lined with new beauties and strange sights. You 
swim in the surf or loll on a sandy beach. 

Here are Missions, orange, lemon and walnut groves, 
gem lakes in mountain settings, an island playground, 
gteat cities and small progressive towns. 

This land means change, complete rest and relaxation. 
It is the summer vacation land of hundreds of thousands 
and can be yours this summer. 

Special low round-trip tickets on sale from 
May 15th to September 30th (with return 
privilege to October 31st) make it more than 
ever easy tocome. Plan now your finest summer. 

Railroad ticket agents in your city will give you full 
information. Ask about it or mail the coupon below to us. 





Building, Los Angeles, Californi 








(9 Los Angetes City [ Bernardino County 
and County (| Santa Barbara County 
Please [1 Orange County O) Ventura County 





C1) Riverside County 








sae ey 


‘Also booklets telling  NAM# 
ofitheradacloneand! Supe. << <vacseeosseseacsecneescascescc? 
in the countics 
Crry oc... ns “STATE... 


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rough. 


sheltered 
SCENIC 


EE the land that offers most in scenic glories. 
Travel west via the great Canadian National 
route through the Canadian Rockies and at Van- 
couver board a Canadian National Steamer for 
the thrilling cruise along the North Pacific Coast. 


Skirting the flower-decked base of snow-capped 
mountains, you see the glories of the famous 











sheltered scenic seas—totem-pole villages, Offices: 
Russian churches, primeval forests and rivers that 23s eee oa su 
tumble down the mountain-sides and into thesea. 11 Sp Dictbn St. 
Chicago _ 
Buy the most for your vacation money—it’s this “Cinclanael” 
cruise to Alaska, a boat trip of 1500 miles each ice tie et ade 
way, every mile of it packed full of amazing Sie ied aemat Bi6a 
sights and scenic thrills. ae 
5 $80, W. Supertor St, 
On your way westward, see Jasper National Park, Kansas City 


836-985 Ry. Exchange Bldg. 
Li 


(4,400square milesofmountain magnificence and 
enjoy the 500 miles of majestic beauty between 
Jasperand the Coast—the routethroughthe “roaring 
gorges” of the Thompson and Fraser river canyons. 
Ask nearest Canadian National office for full 
information. 







lelphia 
rust Bldg. 
nut St 





Portland, Me. 


$90 for a “ingen 
+ Louis 
s 
Ten Day Trip 


Vancouver to Skagway and Return 
This minimum Fare includes 
Meals and Berth 





THE - LARGEST - RAILWAY - SYSTEM - IN - AMERICA 





Greatest of All Essex Values 


Greatest of All Essex Years 


i 






























































































































































Built by Hudson, Essex not only shares the advantages of 
the famous Super-Six patents, but also the value-building 
supremacy of their enormous combined production. 


It is the one issue in the most astounding sales success of 
motordom. The greatest of all Essex values is responsible 
for the greatest of all Essex years. No car, at or near the 
price, rivals it in actual proof of value—which is SALES. 


ESSEX COACH °*895 


Freight and Tax Extra 


Hudson-Essex, Now World’s Largest Selling 6-Cylinder Cars 


More Than 1000 Bought Every Day 





Cement fillings 
in trees are like 
dentistry 


In the treatment of a cavity in a 
tooth, the dentist must do at least 
three things. First, he must clean 
out all the decay and prevent fur- 
ther decay. Second, he must pre- 
pare the cavity so that the filling will 
stay permanently in place. Third, 
he must exclude all foreign sub- 
stance, especially moisture. 

The Tree Surgeon must do all of 
these things and more. He must 
contend with the swaying and twist- 
ing of the trees in the terrific winds. 
Therefore, Davey Tree Surgeons 
build their cement fillings in sec- 
tions, like the backbone in the hu- 
man body, to allow for this sway 
and to prevent cracking and break- 
ing. This sectional filling method is 
a patented process, used exclusively 
by Davey Tree Surgeons, and is the 
one thing that made successful Tree 
Surgery possible. 


THE DAVEY TREE EXPERT Co., INC. 


188 City Bank Building, 
Kent, Ohio 






Attach this coupon to your 
letterhead and mail today 


Reg. 
THE DAVEY TREE f,7 og. 
EXPERT CO., Inc., 
188 City Bank Bldg., 
Kent, Ohio 


Gentlemen: Without cost or obligation on 
my part, please have your local repre- 
sentative examine my trees and advise 
me as to their condition and needs. 





JOHN DAVEY 
Father of 
Tree Surgery 















CARL ZEISS 


Prism Binoculars 


OUR first journey with a 
Zeiss Binocular will impress 
you with the many uses for 
these remarkable field glasses. 
They enable you to observe far- 
off shores, distant mountain peaks, 
to get close up to wild game, to be 
right among the players at a foot- 
ball or baseball game, to have a 
ringside view at boxing bouts. 
Only in a Zeiss Binocular will 
you find the power, field of view 
and sharp definition which have 
made these binoculars famous 
throughout the world. 


20 Models of 3 to 18 power at opticians, 
camera and sporting-goods dealers. 
Write us for catalog 


TIAROLD M. BENNETT 
U. 8, AGENT 

153-D West 23rd Street 

New York 






Gen’! Distributing 
Agents for Canada 
‘Tue Hucues-Owens 
Comeany, Lap. 
Montreal Toronto 
Winnipeg Ottawa 








ising 


Great Lakes 








and Georgian Bay 
(30,000 Islands) 


VISITING 


Mackinac Island 
Parry Sd. Canada 
Chicago, Detroit 
Cleveland 
Buffalo 
with a full day at 
Niagara Falls 











Included 





These Great Cruising Ships 


in comfort and luxury are equal to the finest Atlantic Liners, 
Promenade _and Sun Decks of unusual width; Large Grand 
Salon and Lounge Rooms; Observation Roof Garden. All 
Staterooms and Parlor Rooms areoutsiderooms with windows 
or port holes. Bath and toilet in connection with Parlor Rooms 
and convenient to all Staterooms. Excellent meals daintily 
served by waitresses. For those who enjoy gaiety there are 
Deck Games, Entertainment, Music and Dancing with a Social 
Hostess to look after the Enjoyment of Guests. Open air play- 
ground screened in with attendant for children. 


Meals and Berth 


a 450 The Great Oil-Burning White Liners 
— 


North American 
and South American 


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“Mention the Geographic—It identifies you.” 


Stamp out Typhoid! 


Over and over again these 
words of helpless self-re- 
proach echo in the hearts of 
those whose loved ones were 
taken from them by diseases 
now known to be preventable. 


Hi only we had known!” 


Perhaps in your own circle some 
one was stricken with typhoid 
fever—that sinister disease 
which comes without warning 
and strikes with deadly force, 
which spares neither rich nor 
poor, high nor low, young nor 
old, which so often leaves its 
victims physically bankrupt and 
subject to other ailments. 


Typhoid fever is a disease of 
filth caused by a germ that is 
taken into the body through the 
mouth. The germ is conveyed 
into the intestines where it rap- 
idly multiplies, sets up inflam- 
mation and creates a poison that 
floods the body. Sewage-con- 
taminated water, unclean milk, 
shell-fish from polluted water, 
uncooked vegetables, house flies 
—all of these may carry typhoid. 
That is why it is so important 
that rigid supervision of water, 
milk and food supplies be main- 





DANGER! 
Tes is the sort of thing that may 
mean typhoid fever for the whole 
family—a satisfying drink of cold, 
sparkling water that came from no- 
one-knows-where ! 
It is never safe to drink from any 
wayside streams or strange wells. 
Typhoid inoculation offers immunity 
to most people for two or three years, 
but to be absolutely safe, unknown 
water must be boiled. 
Inoculation also tends to protect you 
from the danger of contracting typhoid 
right in your own home. In many 
cities the Health Department gives 
such inoculations free. 
Household helpers who are “typhoid 
carriers” have been known to infect 
entire families. 
Inoculation against typhoid has no 
relation to vaccinations for smallpox 
and diphtheria, It is an added health 
protection. 


oculation by means of a simple 
injection of vaccine under the 
skin will in most cases prevent 
typhoid. The injection is re- 
peated at intervals of a week 
until three treatments have been 
given. No scar is left. In the rare 
cases where typhoid is con- 
tracted, even after inoculation, 
this protection makes the siege 
much less severe. 


Campers, hikers, vacationists and 
all persons who are traveling, as 
well as those who regularly eat 
in public places should be the 
first to be inoculated against 
typhoid. 


It is true that at times people 
who are exposed to typhoid do 
not contract it. They are tem- 
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safe to take immunity 

for granted. Beinocue * 
lated and advise others ~ 
to protect them- 
selves. Could you 
ever excuse your- 
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against inocula- 
tion who subse- 
quently contracted 


the disease? Make an appointment 
with your doctor for yourself and 
all your family. Avoid danger so 
far as possible regarding what you 


tained in every section of our country. There 
need never be another epidemic of typhoid fever. 
Science has bestowed a wonderful blessing in of- 
fering protection from typhoid. This merciless 


disease can be made as rare as yellow fever. In- 


hoid fever kills one out of every ten persons 
whohaveit, Those who recover are left in such 
a weakened condition that for three years follow- 
ing, the death rate among such persons is twice 
the normal rate. 


Wherever cities protect their drinking supply 


from sewage or purify the water by chlorination 
the death-rate from typhoid drops. A marked 
reduction also takes place in communities where 
milk and food supplies are carefully protected and 
food handlers thoroughly inspected. 


The value of typhoid inoculation was proved 





eat and drink. 


during the World War. Inoculation of our four 
million men was compulsory. In France and in 
our training camps at home there was practically 
no typhoid in our ranks, 
Contrast this with the records of the Spanish- 
American War. ere one out of every five con+ 
tracted the disease. 
The Metropolitan Life Insurance Company will 
be glad to mail its booklet, “The Conquest of 
Typhoid Fever” to all who are interested in 
stamping out this disease. 
HALEY FISKE, President. 


Published by : 








METROPOLITAN LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY ~NEW YORK 


Biggest in the World, More Assets, More Policyholders, More Insurance in force, More new Insurance each year 


“Mention the Geographic—It identifies you.” 


An old-time Standard 


It requires a business with 
a high and steadfast standard 
to manufacture any article 
but especially such dainty, 
perishable things as choco- 
lates—and keep the high 
quality always the same for 
eighty-three years. 

The package of chocolates 
shown below is the direct 
descendant of the original 
popular assortment of 
Whitman’s, made continu- 
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of chocolates and confections 
are sold through selected 
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“On Choosing Chocolates.’ 
A booklet of real charm 
and interest to all who 
prize fine sweets. Write 
us for a copy. 


Vor. XLVII, No. 6 


WASHINGTON 


June, 1925 










































NATIONAL 
GEOGRAPHIC] © 
MAGAZINE 






























COPYRIGHT 1925. BY NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY. WASHINGTON O © IN THE UNITED STATES AND GREAT BRITAIN 











A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


From Addis Ababa Through Lalibela, the Strange Jeru- 
salem of Ethiopia, in Search of New 
Grains for American Farms 


By Harry V. Harran 


NE of the most famous women 
rulers in the history of the world 
sat upon the throne of Abyssinia 

nearly 3,000 years ago, but the present 
empress of that country, a daughter of 
Menelik II, is not allowed to govern her 
people. \Waizeru Zauditu is merely the 
nominal head of this country, which was 
noted as the home of the Queen of Sheba 
in the days of Solomon. The actual 
ruler of Abyssinia, or Kthiopia, as its 
natives prefer to call it, is Ras Taffari, 
the regent and heir apparent, son of Ras 
Makonnen of Harar, and cousin to the 
Empress. 

There has been an increasing senti- 
ment on the part of Ras Taffari and 
others to widen Abyssinia’s contact with 
the outside world. At the end of the 
World War, Ras Nado, governor of the 
province of Goré, was sent to congratulate 
the Allies on their victory. In the course 
of his tour he visited the United States, 
and later, in Abyssinia, I heard him de- 
scribe his visit to the Ford automobile 
plant at Detroit. 

Ras Taffari upset convention when, in 
October, 1922, he visited Aden, and a 
few hours after his arrival was viewing 
the city from the first airplane he had 
ever seen. In 1924 he did a still more 
astounding thing. In the early stummer 


he made an extensive visit to Europe, 
thus breaking a century-old precedent. 

The most interesting event of the 
regent’s trip took place in London, where 
the King of England presented to him the 
crown of King Theodore of Abyssinia, 
which was captured at Magdala by the 
British in 1868. 

When Ras Taffari went to Europe he 
took with him lions and zebras, which 
have been the royal gifts of Abyssinian 
monarchs to the officials of other coun- 
tries for centuries. ‘To the British mon- 
arch and to the President of France he 
presented lions; zebras were given to 
lesser personages. 

Ras Taffari met the wonders of civili- 
zation smiling and impenetrable. He 
listened and watched, but advanced no 
opinions. 





AUTHOR’S FIRST INTERVIEW 
RAS TAFFARI 


THE WITH 

My first interview with Ras Taffari 
took place early in November, 1923. An 
appointment had been made for me by 
Dr. T. A. Lambie, an American physician 
of Addis Ababa, capital of Abyssinia. 
While we were waiting in the reception 
room of the palace, the servant, who 
came to escort us to the ruler, opened the 
door a moment too soon and revealed His 






614 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 











a ret ‘ ened 5 ESN ES TY ES as 
Photograph by E. A. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 


RAS TAFFARI, PRINCE REGENT OF ABYSSINIA, ON HIS THRONE 


He is actual ruler of the country, while Zauditu, daughter of the late Menelik II (see 
illustration on opposite page), is the nominal empress. Ras Taffari is well educated and broad- 
minded, He is an absolute monarch, ruling over 8,000,000 natives, and is heir to the imperial 
throne. 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 





THE EMPRESS ZAUDITU IN HER ROYAL ROBES 


615 


~ Photograph ‘fram ALN. Mirzaoff 





The rulers of Abyssinia for centuries have styled themselves Negus Negusti (King of 
Kings), and the whole royal line is supposed to have descended from the son of the Queen 


of Sheba and King Solomon. 


Highness arranging his draperies. When 
we entered he was seated exactly in the 
center of a divan, with twin cushions 
precisely placed at either end. 

Ras Taffari is a man of slight build, 
with an olive skin, an alert, intelligent 
face, and wonderful eyes. His delicate 
hands, with exceedingly long, slender 
fingers, however, are his most remarkable 
physical features. They fascinated me 
and throughout the interview I could 
hardly take my eyes from them. 

The purpose of my interview was to 
pave the way to a request for travel 
passes. I explained that I was sent by 
my Government to collect seeds of Aby 
sinian plants for cultivation in America, 

Ras Taffari expressed great amaze- 
ment that a country such as his could 
furnish things of value to the United 
States. I told him of the many valuable 
importations of plants we had made and 
of our hope of using as breeding material 
primitive wheats and barleys that were 
not of great value in themselves. 

It was necessary that he understand 





fully the object of my trip, for the re- 
gent’s rule is absolute. If a pistol is to 
be imported, the matter comes before Ras 
Taftari; if there is unrest in Tigré, it is 
he who must quiet it; if a foreigner 
wishes to go to Goré, it is of the ruler 
that the request for passes is made. 
Now, I wanted not only to travel, but 
to travel through the heart of Amhara, 
which comprises the northwest quarter of 
Ethiopia (see map, page 618). This is 
the historic region of Abyssinia, inhab- 


ited by Ambharas, a Hamitic - Semitic 
people. 
RAS TAFFARI KINDLY DISPOSED TOWARD 


AMERICANS 


Many Americans think of the Abyss 
ians as Negroes. We are so accustomed 
to look upon Africa as the home of the 
Negro that this assumption is quite natu- 
ral. Many years ago the Negroes of 
America sent a mission to Ethiopia to 
congratulate Menelik on being the ruler 
of the only independent Negro country. 
He refused to receive the mission. The 





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617 


618 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 














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HRABIA 
aN 
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GULF 





nat 2 
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ADEN 





BRITISH 
SOMALILAND 





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Drawn by James M. Darley 


A MAP OF ABYSSINIA 


The author's journey by caravan led from the capital, Addis Ababa, northward by way 
of Ankober, capital of the province of Shoa, the market place of Makfud (see text, page 635), 
Majetie, and Dessie; thence to the Abyssinian Jerusalem, Lalibela (see pages 651-661), at 
which point the caravan turned west and reached Gallabat, on the Anglo-Egyptian-Sudan 
border, by way of Debra Tabor, Lake Tsana, source of the Blue Nile, and the ruins of the 
medieval Portuguese city of Gondar. Abyssinia’s chief means of contact with the outside world 
is through the railroad between the port of Jibuti, in French Somaliland, and Addis Ababa. 


Amharas are a proud people and have 
looked upon their negroid tribes as in- 
ferior beings. 

Unfortunately, the United States has 
no resident agent in Ethiopia, and when 
I requested leave to travel through Am- 
hara by way of Gondar I ran into difficul- 
ties. Although the ruler is very favorably 
disposed toward Americans, and is will- 
ing to extend unusual courtesies to them, 
he first makes very sure of their mission 
and satisfies himself that they are as they 
represent themselves. 

It was several weeks before I obtained 
my papers, but in the interval Ras Taffari 
was very kind, entertaining me at tea and 
later at dinner. 

Eventually all doubts concerning me 


were dispelled and the permits were 
granted, but there lingered to the last 
some suspicion regarding my companion, 
Mr. Sewall. My mission was an under- 
standable one, but it was not so easy to 
comprehend why an American student at 
Oxford should desire to endure two 
months of hard travel and the exposure 
of camp life largely for pleasure! 


FAST-GROWING EUCALYPTUS TREE 
LOCATION OF CAPITAL 


FIXES 


While the ruler was making up his 
mind as to whether we were Americans 
and whether our mission was so simple 
as we had represented it, we spent three 
interesting weeks in and around the cap- 
ital. 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 619 





A. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 





Photograph by E. 





ARMED ABYSSINIANS OF ADDIS ABABA 


There is no trouble afoot; it is merely the custom of the soldier to walk the streets of his 
capital city fully accoutered. The central figure is the shield-bearer of an officer, The shield 
is af rhinoceros hide and is a traditional emblem of rank. 


620 


Photograph by E, A, Salisbury 





rom Ewing Galloway 


THE NATIONAT, GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


Entotto Hills, along the 
base of which the usual 
random village arose. 
About this time foreign- 
ers began to take an in- 
terest in Ethiopia. Many 
Greeks, Armenians, and 
Parsees built stores in 
the new town and sev- 
eral European govern- 
ments erected legations. 
The French started rail- 
way construction in its 
direction from the coast. 

Then the trees began 
to disappear, and once 
more Abyssinian officials 
advocated the removal 
of the capital. ‘The for- 
eigners objected because 
of the loss of their im- 
provements. The oppor- 
tune introduction of the 
eucalyptus by Menelik 
solved the fuel problem 
and probably settled the 
location of the capital 
for all time. To-day the 
city is in a forest of tall 
eucalyptus trees, none of 
which is more than 30 
years old. 


NO ELECTRICITY, GAS, OR 
SEWERAGE IN ADDIS 
ABABA 


A CHAMBERLAIN OF RAS TAFFARI'S COURT 


The embroidered toga shows that he is a chieftain. 


is the staff of the office of chamberlain. 
clearing the path for the prince. 


A capital in Ethiopia for centuries 
meant little more than the temporary 
home of the king, or, in terms of the proy- 
ince, the feudal representative of the 
king. Such capitals, or homes, were 
commonly situated on sharp peaks sur- 
rounded by military defenses. A ram- 
bling village usually sprang up about the 
place; the population increased and the 
available firewood decreased. FEventually 
the capital was transferred to a location 
where fuel was more abundant. 

In the case of Addis Ababa foreign con- 
tacts interfered with the natural course 
of events. Menelik had established this 
new capital in a forested section of the 





He uses it vigorously in 


Addis Ababa is a 
straggling city. The 
principal streets are 
“paved” with round, 
waterworn bowlders from 6 to to inches 
in diameter, and the two main suburban 
roads along the base of the hill are sur- 
faced with a thin macadam. Wheeled 
traffic is uncommon, most residents going 
from place to place on horseback. It is 
a journey of an hour and a half from the 
American mission, on one edge of town, 
to the British Legation, on the other. 

A fairly good road runs from the resi- 
dence of Ras Taffari to that of the Em- 
press, and several streets are passable to 
the half-dozen automobiles, which are 
limited to the city and to one road which 
is improved for some distance westward. 
Over the country as a whole there is no 


The wand 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 621 





Photograph by E. A. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 





WAIZERU MENEN, WIFE OF THE PRINCE REGENT OF ABYSSINIA 


The princess is not in her state robes. A manservant is holding the parasol over her 
head and the women are her slaves. The palaces of the ruling family are modest abodes, the 
only evidence of luxury being the costly oriental rugs, of which all the nobility of Abyss 
are especially fond. 








622 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


possibility of wheeled traffic of 
any kind, 

To ride in an automobile in the 
city is more or less of an adven- 
ture. The streets are always filled 
with pedestrians, each one of 
whom is obsessed with the idea 
that he must discover how long he 
can keep in front of the machine 
by running, The native pack po- 
nies coming to market are unused 
to autos and gallop wildly along 
the road, causing their packs, 
when loaded with hay, to slip side- 
wise and finally beneath them, thus 
scattering grass for blocks. 

The store buildings are one- or 


Jarry V. Harlan 


make two trips a week 
ic peoples of the semidesert. 












< 

s two-story adobe and stone struc- 
a tures covered with galvanized-iron 
an roofing. The stocks of goods are 
a small and inferior, although at one 
=z store, run by a Parsee, a consider- 


able assortment of articles is for 
sale. Besides the stores, there are 
the thousands of grass-roofed huts 
scattered about the hills, where 
the native population lives. 

There is no electricity, no gas, 
no water or sewerage system, but 
there is a “movie.” 

All the town goes to the station 
in the evening when the train ar- 
rives from Jibuti. The coaches of 
the train are filled with all kinds 
and classes of people, who arrive 
weary and dirty. 

Tt is only 500 miles from the 
coast, but the toy train has labored 
heavily for three days to accom- 
plish the journey, It runs only in 
daylight hours—a practice due in 
part to danger from the Somalis 
and Danakils, nomadic peoples of 
the semidesert, for it would not 
he difficult to remove a rail, plun- 
der the wreck, and disappear in 
the darkn Trouble was ex- 
perienced in the days of construc- 
tion, and the railroad has pushed 
its influence only a few miles from 
the right of way. Two hours’ ride 
on horseback brings one among 
nomads living as they have lived 
from time immemorial. 

The harvest was coming on and 
I had all too little time at Addis 





e, due to danger from marau 





rail from the coast of the Gulf of A 


A TRAIN ON THE L 


ng the dayti: 


ba goes to the station to meet the tra 











is 500 mi 


ce) 
= 








1 





The capital of At 





wopyas uRUIssAYY tT, 





623 


G24 THE 





NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZI} 





Photograph from A. Mirzaoff 


GUESTS AT A RAW-MEAT CORONATION BANQUET 


This feast, known as a “guebeur,” was given when Empress Zauditu ascended the Abyssinian 
throne, once occupied, according to tradition, by the Queen of Sheba. 


Ababa to make my arrangements. ‘The 
white residents of the capital were of in- 
valuable assistance, Most of my personnel 
was secured on the recommendations of 
the British Legation and of Dr. Lambie. 





DISS RS OF CARAVAN 





iNSION AMONG ME 
INSURED SUCCI 








There are a few details of organization 
to which particular attention should be 
paid. The first is to be well supplied with 
interpreters. ‘There should be at least 
two, preferably men who do not like one 
another, for there are several hazards in 
having but one interpreter. In the first 
place, you are at his mercy, and are told 
only the things that he is willing that you 
should know. If he wishes to go a cer- 
tain route, he tells you that there is but 
one road, Again, he may fall ill and thus 
leave you without means of communica- 
tion. 

With my caravan IT took three men 
who spoke English and one who spoke 
French. It was fortunate that I had 
them, for my headmen had planned the 
trip to suit themselves, 


A second end to be secured in organi- 
zation is dissension in camp, ‘There can 
be no concerted action and little individ- 
ual sabotage in the way of delaying the 
marches, if there are factions among the 
servants. To this end both Mohamme- 
dans and Christians were hired as helpers. 

I was looking for dissension and got 
it—in fact, far more than was necessary. 
However, the Mohammedans proved to 
be very useful in tying up the Christians 
when the latter were drunk. 

The more important chieftains pre- 
sented me with large quantities of beer 
and tej for the men. ‘The Mohamme- 
dans did not drink, since it is contrary to 
their religious belief. The Christians, on 
the other hand, not only drank, but not 
too playfully chased one another with 
razor-edged hunting knives and tried to 
throw one another over precipices. Some 
nights a surprising proportion of the 
caravan was tied up. After a time we 
commenced tying when the first dull thud 
of blows began to sound, and without 
waiting for the knives to be unsheathed. 

The caravan as finally organized con- 


A CARAVAN 





EXCAVATING 


For centuries Abyssinian capitals were only temporary abodes, incr 


JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


FOR AN AMERICAN MISSION HOSPITAL: ADDIS ABABA 





e in population and 





consequent decrease in available firewood necessitating removals to locations where fuel was 


Addis 





more abundant. ab: 





astute ruler introduced the rapidly growing eucalyptus tree. To-day the city 


founded in 1892 by Menelik II, has remained fixed bec: 


se the 
in the midst of 








a forest of these trees, none of which is more than 30 years old (see text, page 620). 


sisted of about 40 men, including the sol- 
diers, of which there were usually to. 
The mules numbered 35 or 40, depending 
on how many the soldiers had with them 
at the moment. My own mules amounted 
to 30. The exact number of men with 
me I never learned. I knew the number 
on both our payrolls, but several of my 
servants had servants of their own, so 
that the total was considerable. 

The organization of the caravan was 
nearly completed and we were about 
ready to leave Addis Ababa, when I was 
stricken with a tropical fever having 
typhuslike symptoms. For several days 
T was very ill and owe much to the con- 
stant attention of Dr. Lambie. As soon 
as I was able to travel we started out 
along the base of the Entotto Hills for 
Ankober (see map, page 618). 

The first day and especially the first 
night were memorable for me. I was 
weaker than I had thought, and long be- 
fore we reached camp I was clinging to 





the saddle to keep from falling off the 
mule. 

The night was worse. We were at an 
elevation of 8,000 feet. The boys did not 
know how to make my bed, and I was 
cold, so very cold. The wind swept down 
the hills through the tent, and all night I 
lay awake and shivered under a pile of 
blankets that should have been ample in 
a North Dakota blizzard. 





CANYONS MAKE 
HAZARDOUS 


TRAVELING 


The plateau over which we were to 
travel for the next two months slopes 
upward from the low plains of the Su- 
dan. It rises gradually higher and higher 
until the extreme eastern edge is reached. 

Here it breaks abruptly into a great 
escarpment, the first drop being one of 
5,000 feet. Its surface is cut by streams, 
the larger of which have eroded canyons 
of great extent and of forbidding depths. 
The aspect of the country is extremely 


ABMOT[eLH BuLMy Wosy KAngsiEg “y “ 








628 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph \. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 
DIGNITARIES OF THE PRINCE REGENT’S STAFF 


Two wear the historical lion's mane collar and headdress. The shield is ornamented with 
silver and silver-gilt. 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


629 





WORN TRAILS LEAD FROM DIRE DAWA 


mountainous, but for the most part this 
appearance is due to erosion. 

The canyons interpose great difficulties 
in traveling. They necessitate either very 
hazardous descents and climbs or time- 
taking detours of many miles. The trails, 
as far as possible, follow the high ground. 

At the greater elevations there are often 
comparatively level areas over which 
caravans wander with ease. In such 
places marches can be made with little 
hardship to the mules. 

The villages on the higher plateau are 
often tucked away in the small canyons, 
which protect them from the fierce wind 
that blows over the eastern escarpment 
toward the Sahara. Many of these set- 
tlements are very picturesque, with their 
grass-thatched huts clustered in little 


‘TO ADDIS ABABA (s 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 
MAP, PAGE 618) 





shelves of the valley and often sur- 
rounded by scattered wormwood trees. 
There is always the great bare plateau 
above and the rough, mountainous canyon 
downstream. 

The second night we camped beside a 
group of lakes so covered with ducks, 
geese, and cranes that the air was con- 
stantly filled with their cries. The geese, 
which are not eaten by the Abyssinians, 
were almost tame enough to kill with a 
stick. 

The first few days we rode over high 
plateaus, passing many fields of barley, 
wheat, and broad beans. The grains were 
ripening and one could not but be amazed 
at the uniformly vigorous appearance of 
the plants. The barley fields were as 
heavy with grain as those of southeastern 





A BLIND ABYSSINIAN BEGGAR PLAYING ON HIS ONE-STRINGED INSTRUME 


Minnesota or the bay region of Cali- 
fornia, yet the methods of culture are 
very primitive. 

3eyond Ankober we saw the plowing 
for a new crop. The ground was being 
scratched by hundreds of narrow wooden 
plows pulled by light oxen. All drivers 
of oxen seem obsessed with the idea that 
cattle are deaf, and shout at them contin- 
ually. Here, due to the joint frantic ef- 
forts of drivers and plowmen, the ground 
was stirred for a depth of three inches. 









“GIVE ME A PAIR OF PANTS!” 

The fifth day from Addis Ababa we 
rode through rain at an elevation of from 
9,000 to 10,000 feet. It was bitter cold, 
but I had recovered so far that I was not 
affected, and wandered away from camp 
to take pictures as soon as we had pitched 
our tents, 

I had heen cautioned by both Euro- 
peans and natives not to stray from the 
caravan on the march or from camp. I 
followed this advice at first, but it is diffi- 
cult to maintain an attitude of caution, 
Besides, this day was cloudy and I knew 
I would have few such opportunities to 
get away from the shadows in my photo- 





THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, 


Photograph by 





graphs. To take several unusual views, 
I followed a side trail leading into a small 
canyon, Farther down I saw wild roses 
in seed, which I gathered ; then wandered 
on and on. 

Suddenly it was recalled to me that I was 
not supposed to be out without a guard. 
I met an old man coming up the trail. 
Half a dozen young men with rifles were 
just offside among the rocks. The old 
man planted himself squarely in the path 
and jabbered something in Amharic. I 
called to my camera boy who was 20 
yards behind. When he came up I said, 
“Kassaye, will you find out what. this 
man wants?” Kassaye spoke to him, and 
again he jabbered. “He says, ‘For 
Heaven’s sake, give me a pair o& pants!’ ” 

My pulse went back to normal, but I 
had no pants to spare. Indeed, I was un- 
easy lest his words should be the first 
I would use upon meeting the British 
official at Gallabat, 800 miles to the north- 








ixth day out from Addis Ababa 
we rode into Ankober, situated on a peak 
in the breaks of the eastern escarpment. 
We sighted it hours before we arrived, 
but were compelled first to drop down 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 








AN ABYSSINIAN WEAVER AT HIS LOOM 


thousands of feet to cross a stream and 
then reclimb to an almost equal eleva- 
tion. The sides of the canyon were very 
precipitous and, although the trail zig- 
zagged back and forth, it was extremely 
steep. 


HISTORIC ANKOBER IS SET ON A HILL 


Ankober was founded by Amada Yesus 
about 1750. It consists of a needlelike 
peak surmounted by a citadel which in- 
cludes an inclosure and a couple of 
houses, one of which belongs to the ruler. 
There are several lines of defenses of a 
type perfected as a barrier to spearmen. 


There are also three or four guardhouses 
on the path which leads to the crest. 

About the hill lie a few scattered huts 
and on either side is a church. 

The view from the peak at the corner 
of the plateau is magnificent. To the 
north and west are lines of crags, rocky 
pinnacles, and forbidding chasms eroded 
from the escarpment. To the northwest 
the escarpment rises like a wall. From 
the southwest to northeast the plain of 
the Hawash River sweeps in a great 
curve—miles and miles of blue-black 
acacia grasslands that fade away in the 
lower levels to intangible streaks of white. 





THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


HORSES AT REST UNDER A FIG TREE 


The wild fig tree flourishes in many parts of Abyssinia. 
sour and is relished only by birds and monkeys. 


Its fruit, however, is dry and 
The natives do not enjoy fruits to any extent 


and take no pains to cultivate them; in fact, near the capital, fruits and yegetables are rarely 


seen, except in the private gardens of Europeans. 


With the field glass toward the hills of 
Harar we could the smoke of a train 
still a day’s journey from Addis Ababa. 

I visited the two churches at Ankober. 
The first was quite new, the decorations 
being unfinished at the time. The typical 
church building of Abyssinia is circular, 
but this one was a many-sided affair. 

In all churches of this type the central 
part of the building is occupied by a 
second circular structure which contains 
many sacred objects and books. During 
services the priests perform their cere- 
monies inside this inner structure. ‘The 
public is admitted only to the corridor 











The floor of the corri- 
usually covered with a sweet- 
scented grass, fragrant even when dried. 

This building doubtless superseded a 
more ancient one, as two kings were 
buried within a few yards of it. 

The second church, on the other side 
of Ankober Hill, was one of the most 
interesting that I found in all Ethiopia. 
It was probably 80 or 100 years old, cir- 
cular in form, and decorated in the most 
gaudy of modern Ethiopian paintings. 
The outer wall of the inner sanctuary 
was covered with a multitude of paintings 
representing Biblical scenes for the most 


which encircles it. 
dor is 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 





Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


DRAWING BLOOD TO RELIEVE HEADACHE 


The sufferer was a tentman of the author's 
assistant coo 


part, although the artist included Abys- 
sinian history and threw in a few fancies 
of his own. The colors were the bright- 
est that can be secured from aniline dyes. 
They were assembled rather than com- 
bined, and as a collection of pigments the 
work was a success 

Besides the Biblical scenes, there were 
processions of Ethiopian kings, ocean 
sailboats without apparent purpose, and, 
in one case, a cannibal sitting before a 
human body carefully disjointed for the 
repast. Before the doors leading into 
the sanctuary were the ceremonial drums. 
One of these was of silver (see illustra- 
tion, page 637). 

The Ambharas belong to the Coptic 
Church, a branch of the Christian faith. 
In their services the priests often encircle 
the church dancing, or dance before it, as 
was the custom of the Jews in Biblical 
times. 

A very aged priest escorted me through 
the building, and at the conclusion of the 
tour I presented a small donation to the 
church. Then followed a scene which 
afterwards became familiar to me, but 





avan and the “physician” was the 








which at that time was quite novel. He 
stopped me and all the natives near by 
and offered a long series of prayers for 
my safe return to my country. 

I was shown the sights of Ankober by 
the man who had been rifle-bearer to 
King Menelik. He also escorted me 
along my route for a couple of hours the 
next day when we left Ankober. 

We again dropped down to cross the 
stream which had made our entry into 
the city difficult, then climbed 2,000 feet 
straight up the face of the escarpment. 

Three hours after leaving Ankober we 
were among the barley fields again, with 
miles of level country before us. Far to 
the northwest we could see Mount Tabor. 
We camped at its foot 33 days later. Be- 
yond it lay Lake Tsana. We could also 
see to our north the high country which 
lay between us and Dessie, the next im- 
portant town on our route. 

We camped that night at 10,700 feet, 
according to my barometer, the highest 
point of the trip. We were again among 
the ducks and geese. 

After three days we changed our course. 











BEEHIVES OF DURRA S$) 





Honey, found widely over Abyssinia 
drical bas’ 








fermented tej is usually homemade. 
Abyssinia, 


We had now been on the plateau for nine 
days’ travel and were wondering what 
might be below us, just off the edge of 
the escarpment. One of our advisers at 
Addis Ababa suggested we might run 
down for a day from Dessie. Others 
thought we had hest stay on the plateau. 
Our caravan leader told us that Mene- 
lik’s favorite road to the Wollo district 
dropped off the plateau. We decided to 
drop, and drop we did—down, down for 
14 days. 
LOYALTY TO RAS TAFFARI 
COMMOTION 


CAUSES A 


On the way to the edge of the escarp- 
ment we were having some difficulty 
finding the proper roads. A local chief- 
tain had joined us and had ridden with 
us across the territory over which he 
ruled. As usual, he had a large retinue 
with him. 

When we reached the limit of his dis- 
trict T asked him to send a guide with us. 
He agreed with apparent pleasure and, 


is the basis of tej, the national drink. 
ets containing a little honey are placed in or suspended from trees, 
have built hives in them, the honey is squeezed into goatskins and taken to market. 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


ALKS SUSPENDED FROM A TREE 


Long, cylin- 
After the bees 
The 


The wax is one of the few products exported from 


turning, spoke to his followers. In a 
second he was surrounded by a mob of 
shouting, protesting, gesticulating men. 
The chief, a man of 6 feet 3 inches, stood 
in the center, showing rows of flashing 
white teeth and shaking his spear until 
its form was lost in vibrations. 

The dispute became so violent that I 
thought it best to give the natives an op- 
portunity to settle it among themselves. 
I climbed a near-by hill to photograph a 
village. When I returned the situation 
was unchanged, so [ got one of the in- 
terpreters to explain the trouble. I 
found that the men were angry because 
their chief had ordered two of them to 
accompany me. They wanted to go of 
their own accord, as a tribute to Ras 
Taffari, and not because they were or- 
dered to do so! And go they did, 20 of 
them, taking us all the way to our eve- 
ning camp site. 

For two days we had come across one 
pack train after another, all going in our 
direction. They consisted of burros 











A CARAVAN 





WOMEN PILING DURRA ITEADS BESIDE S' 


Teff, a kind of millet, is the principal cereal crop of Abys: 
It is grown in the higher parts of the countr 
Abyssinia has a surface 


red and white. 
replaces teff in the lower regions. 


JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


635 







2 TT 








inia and is found in two varieties, 
Durra, a grain-yielding sorghum, 
of such varying levels, with conse- 








quent differences in temperature, that numerous varieties of grain, fruit, and vegetables can be 


grown. 


loaded with grain. The drivers, when 
asked where they were going, invariably 
answered, “To the Makfud market.” I 
was naturally interested in markets, as 
they offered an opportunity to collect 
grains and seeds; also, “Makfud” was 
one of the names that was on all three of 
our maps. 

We decided to go to Makfud, so sent 
the caravan directly ahead, while we 
made the detour to the market. Imagine 
our surprise, after a three hours’ ride, to 
come out upon a bare mountain top. 
This was the Makfud market place. 
‘There was a large village an hour away, 
which doubtless was on none of our three 
maps, yet this place was shown on each 
of them, 





COTTON AND SALT USED AS MONEY 


IT came across other markets later— 
bare mountain tops like this one, with no 
village about. 

We were very glad we came, however, 


The soil is so fertile that in some sections three and four crops a year can be obtained. 


for this was a point to which the people 
of the lowlands climb one day each week 
to exchange cotton and other tropical 
products for the grain of those who de- 
scend from the plateau. 

Here I first ran into the complications of 
Abyssinian money. About Addis Ababa 
and along the railroad, traffic is carried 
on much as elsewhere in the world. Over 
most of Abyssinia this is not true, how- 
ever. The old Maria Theresa thaler of 
Austria T found good everywhere, with 
reservations. It is as good in Gondar as 
in Addis Ababa. But the coin must be 
dated 1780 and the medallion on the 
empress’ dress must not be worn off by 
usage. No date other than 1780 is ac- 
ceptable. All new coins bear this date. 

With the fractional currency it is dif- 
ferent. The thaler is divided into 16 
fractions, usually called tomauns. These 
are accepted in and near Addis Ababa. 
It is true that one cannot get 16 of them, 
except in stamps at the post office. In 








63 THE 


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


THE HISTORIC ABYSSINIAN CAPITAL OF ANKOBER 





Tt cons 
houses are sc 
author's caravan. 





the market you get 11 or you may get 8, 
depending on their scarcity, but never 16, 
Beyond Ankober they are not accepted. 

At the Makfud market I selected 12 
samples of grain and sacked them. They 
weighed only a couple of ounces each, 
and when I offered one tomatun each | 
was offering a great many times their 
value. My offer was refused. The 
owners wanted cotton, that being the me- 
dium of exchange here. 

I saw a native merchant from Addis 
Ababa buying cotton. I knew he would 
take tomauns, so I purchased from him 
one tomaun’s worth of cotton and with 
that cotton purchased my 12 samples. 
Strange to say, those of whom T had pur- 
chased grain did not resent my offering 
them in cotton the twelfth part of my 





a needlelike peak crowned by a citadel (see text, page 631). 
attered along the path to the summit. 


Several guard- 
In the foreground are the tents of the 


first offer, but seemed, on the contrary, 
quite pleased. 

Farther north we used salt for minor 
payments. Four bars of native salt are 
sold for one thaler. If a chicken is pur- 
chased, a chunk of salt the size of an egg 
is knocked off and presented for pay- 
ment. 

After leaving the Robi River valley to 
the north of Makfud, our road ran 
through a series of small valleys of which 
T had not heard and which were marked 
on none of our maps. The lower ends 
were occupied by salt-water marshes, 
while their upper ends were planted to 
almost continuous fields of grain sor- 
ghums. These sorghums were much 
taller than the Kafir corns and durras in- 
troduced into America years ago, and 





CEREMONIAL CHURCH DRUMS: ANKOBER 


ness, 


Photographs by Tarry V. Harlan 


O IN A CHRISTIAN CHURCH AT ANKOBER 
In the center is an angel, to the reader’s left are the saved souls, and to the right are the 
san) he colors of the mural decorations in the two churches at Ankober are gaudy as 
yes can m: them. Virtuous people are always represented as looking modestly 
from the corners of their eyes 








e138 I9yjO pur ‘sa 
suBaq proiq pur way 
pug urydAssy-ojsuy 





1A Sasrezy <q 








deaszoy 





q ‘syeayM aanmutad ureyqo 01 sem diy ayy yo yoafqo ayy, ‘aouvavaddy ut snos 
Aajivq JO spay Auvyy ‘saynur oF so SE auos I pure ‘saaipjos 
ayy ut ‘yeq ) OF Eqeqy Sippy Wosy neajeyd Ys e 49A0 payaavsy anurjas stay) pue 








AVALV'Id HOLM HHL DNO’IV ONISS¥d NVAVUVO S SYOULAY AHL 


SOILS POPUL] of} OY! vOHINposjUl 1o0F 


Ajuoyiun Suiaq syurjd oy} ‘passed asa 


aw OF yNC 
LOU 





638 











WOT puLM 
UWIMNSUOS-3tul} 1 
[PAR Oy 





IL 









NOLINS 
ayjsau syn 





nbaay 


ay 
payor 





LL 


NO 








N 


aqsea att 
Sa]ilu [BIaAas Sinojap 
oF Spies, ayy, ‘jyNoWrp 
B neayeld dy} JO VoEfANs dy} IND aavy suueasyg 





ANVO V 





639 


640 





RAS AURI AND HIS WIFE: DE! 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC 


|||) 
ut 


MAGAZINE 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 





The youthful aide to the chieftain of the Amhara district is an intelligent, capable man. 


He invited the two Americans to his home to meet his wif 
bearing toward her guests and retainers showed that the pos 


of greater liberty than 





which are now cultivated so extensively 
in Kansas and Oklahoma. The average 
height in many fields was in the neighbor- 
hood of 18 feet. The soil in those valleys 
was among the best I saw in all Abys 
sinia. 





THE 





XURERANT GALLA WORKS WITH 
WILD ENTHUSIASM 





One day we came upon a group of 
Gallas threshing teff. They could be 
heard for at least two miles from the 
threshing floor. Half a dozen men were 
flailing frantically as they shouted a sort 
of song with frequent musical climaxes 
As these were reached, the flails de- 
scended faster and faster, and the men 
beat harder and harder, bending to the 
ground as they slammed the heavy flails 
into the straw, 

They seem to carry on all operations 
with the same wild enthusiasm. Near 
Modjo a month earlier we saw a troop of 
horsemen riding over a hill toward us. 
They were whipping their horses to a 
wild gallop, riding in complicated circles 











Her interesting conversation and 
on of the wife in Amhara is one 





s customary in the Orient (see text, pages 646-647). 


as they advanced, each waving his spear 
with alarming ease. It was a mounted 
wedding party, composed of the bride- 
groom's friends, who were accompanying 
him as he returned to his village with his 
bride. 
The bridegroom, a man of 40, held the 
girl before him on his horse. From her 
size we judged that she was scarcely 
more than a child, though we could see 
only her form, as she was completely 
covered by a filthy square of cotton cloth. 
On a distant hillside could be seen the 
friends and relatives of the bride, who 
had followed the mounted party from 
her village to the trail which led to the 
settlement in which the husband lived. 





WARNINGS OF DANGER AHEAD 
ANTICLIMAXN 


HAVE 


As we journeyed to the north we found 
the Amhara villages withdrawn to the 
foot of the escarpment and those of the 
Gallas to a minor ridge, the valleys be- 
tween becoming a sort of “No Man's 
Land.” Ambharas from the plateau de- 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 





THE GALLOWS IN THE 


MARKET PLACE AT D. 


641 


Photograph by Marry V. Tarlan 


SI 





Abyssinia’s penal code is based on the Mosaic Law and its punishments are drastic. 


Hangings occur frequently, usually on trees or gallows, in a market place. 
to die gradually and his body is left suspended 


scended during the day to plant sorghum, 
and Gallas from the ridge to herd cattle 
or, perhaps, plant a little. At places, the 
old war of the cattleman against the cul- 
tivator was in full swing, as it was once 
in our own West. At night the valleys 
were the scenes of thieving parties, and 
blame for any depredations was laid by 
the Amharas at the door of the Gallas, 
and by the Gallas at the door of the 
Amharas. 

We received many warnings of trouble 
ahead. We first met a lone man on foot 
who claimed that he had been set upon 
by an armed band of 80 robbers; that his 
mulemen had been killed and his caravan 








The victim is made 


for a few days as a warning. 


stolen. We then met the remains of a 
caravan which, according to its owner, 
had had a similar experience. Our own 
men were obviously worried. 

On December 19 we camped before 
Majetie, in a valley three hours from 
the town. The chief sent word that we 
must come up near the village; otherwise 
we would be attacked before morning. 
Farmers working near our camp site told 
us the same, but since we marched only 
six hours a day and Majetie was three 
hours off the road, there seemed no ad- 
vantage in camping in the danger zone 
on the 2oth instead of the roth. We de- 
cided to remain where we were. 


642 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 







ument of his 






Photograph by Harry V, Harlan 


n (see text, 


Dejasmatch Altim 





I was not uneasy; T was 
scared, I do not think my 
men were any braver, for 
none of them slept that 
night. The whole camp 
was on guard. 

Before going to bed T 
thought it best to look to 
my defenses. Ras Taffari 
had sent Ato Belatcho with 
me as a contact man and 
chief of the guards, who 
were changed at the head- 
quarters of each local chief- 
tain. 

Ten men had been sent 
out with me from Ankober. 
IT found that of the ten, 
only three had had car- 
tridges when they left An- 
kober, and one of the three 
had sold his the day before, 
probably to a bandit. Of 
the two remaining soldiers, 
one had two and the other 
five cartridges. T went to 
bed with my clothes on and 
a shotgun with five rounds 
of buckshot on the covers. 

Nothing happened. ‘The 
anticlimax was typical of 
the perils of travel in re- 
mote regions. Our dangers 
were largely psychological, 
and the real difficulties, due 
to unrest in the region, 
were avoided by careful 
organization and _ contacts 
effected before the expedi- 
tion left Addis Ababa. 

The next morning when 
we broke camp there were 
many <Abyssinians about. 
I noticed one unusually 
vigorous man armed with 
a rifle standing within a 
few feet of me. T thought 
of him only for the mo- 
ment, because the occur- 
rences of this morning were 
not different from those of 
any other morning. AL 
ways the Abyssinians from 
near-by points came in to 
see us break camp and they 
invariably carried arms. 


*YDO}S AYYIVM pu dI]LIA & ‘9deI Surpns oy} sae pue uonryndod ay} jo p 
1 HT I ee I 1 PGE UO} Tt 3° Ff 
punyu Aq payqryut st pue woIsor o10\sIY] S/eLUT 





r disputes before some local dignitary (see text, page 661). 





=. 
f=] 
2 

S 
a 
S 
e 
= 
a 
a 
Y 

B 


644 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY 


Every Abyssinian carries a rifle; he may 
have no ammunition, but the rifle is as 
much a part of his dress as his chamma 
(toga). 

When we had been about an hour on 
the march the caravan suddenly halted. 
Some of the men came running back to 
me and reported that a mule carrying one 
of the steel boxes was missing. I hur- 
ried up and found, as might have been 
expected, that it was the box I treasured 
most. It contained my photographic sup- 
plies, all my letters of credit, all the let- 
ters that Ras Taffari had written to the 
local chieftains directing their assistance, 
the customs pass, and numerous other 
objects that were invaluable. 

To find the mule seemed hopeless. 
Where cultivated, the valley was covered 
with a growth of grain sorghum 18 feet 
in height. ‘The uncultivated areas were 
overgrown with grass seven or eight feet 
in height. The loss of the box meant no 
photographs, endless trouble with local 
authorities, and our arrival in Gallabat 
without funds. 

While I was revolving in my mind the 
steps that might be taken, Ali, one of my 
tentmen, reported that he had seen a 
stranger standing beside that particular 
mule in camp that morning. 

Leaving only enough men to hold the 
caravan together, the rest of us scattered 
over the country. Ali mounted a mule 
and galloped back to camp, where on his 
arrival he found some of the farmers of 
the hills returned to their work. He told 
them of what had happened. They asked 
to be shown the spot where the man and 
the mule had been seen. Ali indicated 
the spot. 





ABYSSINIANS PROVE KEEN TRACKERS 





We had camped on a piece of grass- 
land from which the grass had been cut. 
Despite the fact that 40 animals had 
grazed here all night and had wandered 
over it after being packed in the morn- 
ing, the natives were able to track the 
missing mule across the grass stubble and 
into a grain sorghum field, in the center 
of which the animal was found tied to a 
tree with his mouth bound shut to pre- 
vent his braying, and 50 feet farther 
along was the steel box, which the robber 
had been unable to open, but which he 


THROUGH ABYSSINIA 645, 
doubtless expected to examine that night 
at leisure. 

Beyond Majetie we drifted along day 
after day through picturesque valleys, al- 
ways with the escarpment to the left. 


CAMP SITES AMID IMPRESSIVE SCENERY 


Our camp sites often commanded most 
impressive mountain views. ‘The popula- 
tion was less dense and we were usually 
able to pitch our tents in the shade of 
large trees. One night we camped above 
a salt marsh where, according to the na- 
tives, there were large animals resem- 
bling buffaloes. I went hunting for them 
with a 16-gauge shotgun loaded with 
balls. I was fortunate in not meeting 
with any, 

On another occasion we camped on the 
flat pasture land in a section of the valley 
occupied by Mohammedans. Villages 
consisting of clusters of thatched huts 
were infrequent on a bare, close-grazed 
plain. There were occasional groups of 
trees, remnants of an extensive forest. 
‘The eastern escarpment, a full two days 
to the west of us, rose like a mountain 
range. Just across the river, in a small 
neck of woodland. were dozens of dig- 
dig, a species of antelope. Flocks of 
waterfowl settled on the river. 

That evening stands out among those 
of the eastern trip for two reasons—the 
sunset and the hyenas. The sunset was 
beautiful, and Sewall and I sat for a long 
time watching the colors to the west. It 
was followed by the hyenas. One of the 
Mohammedan herdsmen had left a live 
cow among the trees and shrubs 100 feet 
from our camp. The hyenas found her 
about the time we went to bed. 

I never hope to hear so much discord- 
ant noise in the same space of time. The 
diabolical laughter of a dozen of the 
beasts seemed to taper off into hideous 
screeches. The wrangling and, as our 
interpreter expressed it, “the shouting” of 
the repulsive brutes continued for an 
hour, after which there was no more cow 
to wrangle about. 

Later, in Dessie, I had occasion to pass 
along one of the streets three times within 
two hours one evening. When I first 
passed T saw a dead mule lying in the 
middle of the street. I commented that 
it was a peculiar place to leave the animal 


646 





A CAMP 


Tents have been pitched in a 
extreme eastern edge of the 
whose side the Christian Amhg 








Gallas to herd their cattle. 
population. 


and was informed that the hyenas would 
save the owner the trouble of removing 
it. Passing the same way an hour later 
T saw that the viscera and part of the 
hind quarters were gone. On my return, 
in less than an hour, I did not find a sin- 
gle trace, not a fragment of bone or a 
wisp of hair. 

Some time later, while in a camp on the 
shores of Lake Tsana, I was disturbed 
one night by a dialogue between a dog 
belonging to one of my soldiers and a 
hyena 50 feet from my tent. The dog 
would bark; then, after a pause, the 
hyena would howl; another pause of 
equal length, and a hark from the dog 
was followed by an accurately timed howl 
from the hyena. The conversation seemed 
endless. 

On the last day before we reached 
Dessie we were continually off the trail. 
Our supposed leaders conducted the cara- 
van through brush and scrub, over hills 


rsely settled valley, where large tree 
nian plateau break 
as have withdrawn their villages from the valley 
minor ridge of the plateau to the Mohammedan Ga 
Land,” for during the day the agricultural Amha 





THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


EAST OF THE ESCARPMENT 





are found. The 
it escarpment, at 
. leaving 
. The valleys are a sort of “No Man's 
descend to plant sorghum and the pastora 





abruptly into a grea 











The Gallas, a Hamitic people, form the majority of Abyssinia’s 


and across streams, until the mules were 
exhausted and the baggage snagged and 
broken. At last we found the main high- 
way and camped in the government in- 
closure at Dessie the day before Christ- 
mas. 





A CHRISTMAS CEL ATION IN DESSIE 


We had finished the worst sector of 
our trip. The country ahead was more 
settled, and after Yedjo (Yejju) we 
would be on the plateau until the final 
dash to the Sudan. 

Ras Cabada, the chieftain of the dis- 
trict, asked us to an evening dinner, and 
Taro Auri, his youthful aide, invited us 
to his house late in the afternoon to meet 
his wife, who was interested in us as the 
first people of European extraction whom 
she had had opportunity to meet. Taro 
Auri is a man about the age of Ras 
Taffari, both heing in the early thirties. 
He is intelligent and capable, and it is 








A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


647 





Photograph by Harry V, Harlan 


MEMBERS OF THE CARAVAN ENJOY A MEAL OF RAW BEEF 


Raw meat is the preferred food of the ma 
consumption, does not take the place of their mainstay—bread. 
to hold in the left hand a bone to which is attached a large piece of meat. 





es, but, being too expensive for frequent 
The usual method of eating is 
The native loosens, 


but does not completely sever, a small bit of meat from the bone, puts the loose end between 


his teeth, and cuts off the other end by an upward stroke of his knife. 


One of the men (at the 


back) looks up resentfully at a bird which swooped down and snatched his meat from his hand. 


upon such as he that the future of Ethi- 
opia depends. Power will soon shift 
from the hands of the generation of Ras 
Cabada, Ras Gougsa, and Ras Nado to 
those of Taro Auri, Melke, and men of 
like age. 

The wife of Taro Auri was the most 
intelligent native woman I met in Ethi- 
opia. Her questions were pertinent and 
the bits of information volunteered were 
highly interesting. It was very evident, 
from the freedom with which she entered 
into conversation and from her bearing 
toward us and toward the retainers of the 
household, that the position of the wife 
in Amhara is one of much greater liberty 
than in the Orient generally. As far as 
our reception and entertainment were 
concerned, she was an equal partner with 
her husband (see page 640). 

We found our host and hostess so en- 
tertaining that darkness had fallen be- 
fore we recalled our other engagement. 
‘There was a great scurrying about to sad- 


dle horses and mules, and the ride which 
followed was spectacular. It was inky 
dark, with that darkness whose existence 
city residents so frequently forget. Hun- 
dreds of men attended us, bearing lighted 
torches. I regretted that we could not 
be at a distance to witness our own prog- 
ress as we galloped down hills, across 
streams, and over open fields—a wild, un- 
organized mob 


COURTEOUS RECEPTION 
MENT AT A CHIE 


AND ENTERTAIN- 
TAIN’S HOME 








The home of Ras Cabada, like that of 
all the greater chieftains, is situated upon 
the crest of a hill chosen for its strategic 
importance. We passed through  in- 
closure after inclosure, and at each en- 
circling barrier we came upon bodies of 
armed troops standing at attention. A 
very sizable army was present for the 
ceremony of our reception. 

The higher officials were gathered about 
the chieftain’s doorway. Passing between 


648 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by E. A. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 
THE ABYSSINIAN “Bop” 


This is the style of haireut in vogue among the juveniles of Ethiopia. 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


= 


649 


SOOT RASES 
Photograph by T. A. Sal 





ury from Ewing 


HOW LENDING AND BORROWING ARE DISCOURAGED IN ABYSSINIA 


The debtor and the creditor are chained together until friends or relatives settle the indebtedness, 
with the result that there are few “loan sharks” in Ethiopia. 


rows of councilors robed in spotless white 
chammas, we were conducted into the 
presence of Ras Cababa and his wife. 
He was bareheaded and about his shoul- 
ders was the blue cape of a high official. 

His home was a little better than that 
of most of the chieftains, Ordinarily the 
residences of the headmen differ from 
those of the peasants only in size. The 
typical house of the plateau consists of a 
circular stone wall, a thatched roof, and 
a dirt floor. Furniture, other than a 
basket or two and perhaps a crude stool, 
is lacking. Sometimes a minor chieftain 
is the possessor of a chair, which is cere- 
moniously carried about wherever he 


goes. As a matter of fact, he prefers to 
sit on a cushion placed on a rug. 

The home of Ras Cabada was provided 
with chairs, a table, tableware, and many 
other innovations, and he very courteously 
attempted to give us a European dinner. 

There were six kinds of wine on the 
table, varying from a good honey tej to 
sparkling Moselle and champagne, and 
there were numerous courses of well- 
cooked food. We started with sweets 
and a tiny glass of brandy and ended with 
hors d’cenvre, but the meal itself was good 
and the effort to provide us with the 
things we would desire was the outcome 
of the thoughtful attention of a gentle- 


© JAPA dE 


jo are sy 





A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 


man, As it was our Christmas Day, it 
was doubly appreciated. 

During the morning we had provided 
sports for the men as a relaxation from 
the hard service they had seen in the 
previous two weeks. Prizes were awarded 
to winners of verious races and contests, 
Afterwards we presented them with a 
bull. The bull was promptly slaughtered 
and the men, seating themselves beside 
the newly dismembered carcass, proceeded 
to stuff themselves with the still warm 
raw meat (see page 647). 


HOW THE ABYSSINIANS EAT RAW MEAT 


The eating of raw meat by the Abyssin- 
ians is interesting. Most of their meat is 
so consumed. Once on the trip I was 
calling on a local chieftain, After he had 
regaled me with some home-brew of none 
too clean appearance, he told me to call 
in some of my servants and he would 
care for them. 

I sent for eight of the leading members 
of the caravan, who seated themselves in 
a circle on the dirt floor of the house. 
Two of the chieftain’s servants then en- 
tered, bearing a sheep suspended from a 
long pole. ‘The carriers stood outside the 
circle. My men pulled out their knives 
and cut off strips of flesh until they were 
satisfied. Little more than a skeleton re- 
mained when they had finished. 

‘The usual method of eating is to re- 
move a large piece of meat attached to a 
bone. The bone is held in the hand, and 
with the knife a small piece of meat is 
loosened by a cut from the base of the 
chunk. The piece is not entirely severed, 
but remains attached at the tip. The 
loose end is then grasped in the teeth and 
the other end freed with a second upward 
cut. To an observer it appears that the 
diners are in constant aid imminent dan- 
ger of severing the ends of their noses. 

North of Dessie we passed by Lake 
Haik. This section was of especial in- 
terest. The population was sparse and 
there were extensive remnants of a juni- 
per forest. 

A few days later we came into the 
prosperous district of Yedjo, with a better 
balanced agriculture than that of the terri- 
tory through which we had just passed. 
Its ruler, Dejasmatch Altimariam, is a 
merry old man with a delightful twinkle 





GOL 


in his eye. He paraded a detachment of 
soldiers for us and adopted Sewall as a 
son (see illustration, page 642). 


AN ARDUOUS CLIMB UP THE ESCARPMENT 


We now turned west, and in one day’s 
march were along the base of the escarp- 
ment. 

We rested the mules a day for the 
climb, and it was well we did, for this 
was the most arduous stage of the jour- 
ney. We started early and climbed for 
hours. We seemed to be always mount- 
ing, always getting higher and higher 
over the valley, but never any nearer the 
top. 

Finally, about noon, we came upon a 
flat bench at the foot of the last cliff. 
There were numerous fields of emmer, 
wheat, and barley planted among the 
bowlders. I photographed many of them 
while waiting for the caravan to arrive. 

After a brief halt we started up the 
last unit of the escarpment. It appeared 
to be only a short distance above us, but 
the caravan arrived at the crest two and 
a half hours later, completely exhausted. 
T photographed the same grainfields from 
the edge, pointing my camera straight 
down. 

Again we found ourselves on the pla- 
teau, after 18 days on the lowlands of the 
east. The water three feet from the edge 
of the escarpment flowed west. 

Six hundred yards farther on we 
camped at the headwaters of the Tak- 
kazye River, among barley and emmer 
fields, on a treeless plateau. We were 
amazed to find living water so high. 
True, it was a tiny stream, but very far 
from where the Atbara joins the Nile. 

That night ice formed and remained 
unmelted until long after sunrise. The 
emmer fields alongside were not affected, 
though they were in full flower. 


LALIBELA, THE JERUSALEM OF ETHIOPTA 


We hurried our journey down the 
Takkazye, as we wanted to be in Lali- 
bela for the Abyssinian Christmas, which 
comes on January 7 by our calendar. 

Our visit to Lalibela was the most in- 
teresting single incident of the trip. It 
seems unbelievable that a city so impor- 
tant in the religious life of a country 
could be so little known. It is, in a way, 


652 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by E. A. Salisbury from Ewing Galloway 


ABYSSINIAN PRIESTS IN PROCESSION 2 


Abyssinia has been a Christian kingdom since the first half of the fourth century. The 
inhabitants are mainly of the Coptic Church. 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY 





THROUGH 


Photograph 


A CROSS ON A PILLAR OF A LALIBELA CHURCH 


ABYSSINIA 


653 


i by Harry V. Harlan 


This symbol, akin to a Maltese cross, was photographed because of its possible significance 
in approximating the period of the construction of Lalibela’s rock churches. 
lie in deep holes, little light penetrates through the decorative fretwork of stone on the windows, 
and it was therefore necessary to have two natives hold candles alongside the pillar when the 
photographic film was exposed (see text, page 655). 


the religious center of Abyssinia. The 
natives refer to it as the Jerusalem of 
Ethiopia and have tried to reproduce 
many of the physical features of that holy 
city. It is the great religious pilgrimage 
center of the Amharas. 

The Christmas celebrations are the cli- 
max of the Coptic pageantry of Ethiopia, 
and thousands of believers come from 
the Tigré, from Gojjam, and from the 
Shoan provinces, and camp about the 
hills until every available site is occupied. 
Yet, despite the importance of the city, 
not half a dozen Europeans have ever 
visited Lalibela. So far as I could learn, 
Mr. Sewall and I were the first English- 
speaking people to visit it and the first 
outsiders of any nationality to witness 
the Christmas celebrations. 


Since the churches 


The infrequency of visitors is all the 


more striking, because t 
known for many 
Alvarez, Portuguese mi 


centuries. 


he place has been 
Francisco 
ssionary and ex- 








plorer, wrote an extensive account of its 


remarkable churches, 
made in 1520. Accordi 


there have been one ( 


ollowing a trip 
ng to C. F. Rey, 
yerman and two 


French expeditions since that of Alvarez. 


Ras Taffari had sent 
we were coming, anc 


should be extended to us. 


rived near Lalibela thou 
were gathered before th 
head priest awaited us 
side with scores of his 
ground. 


word ahead that 
that courtesies 

When we ar- 
sands of pilgrims 
e village, and the 
on an open hill- 
oriests as a back- 





The priests were dressed in their most 


elaborate costumes 





blue, 


red, purple. 





THE UPPER END OF ON 


The Jerusalem of Ethiopia is the religious pilgrimage 
rock churches, ascribed to Lalibela, a semi-mythical 
stone ledge of red volcanic tuff and are of one piece, from entrance to altar and from a 


roof (see text below). 
the pierced latticework, have some beauty. 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by Harry V. Marlan 


. OF THE ROCK CHURCHES OF LALIBELA 


center of the Amharas. Its famous 
nian king, are cut from a single 
ar to 





by 








Each is properly oriented, and the interior decorations, especially 
Few 


foreigners have visited Lalibela and its 


churches, notwithstanding the importance of the town. 


and other colored cloth embroidered in 
gold. Gold and silver crosses of large 
size abounded, and there were dozens of 
bright-colored parasols with gold fringes. 
After the preliminary songs, greetings, 
and prayers for our safety were over, 
the priests danced for us—danced as they 
probably did in Palestine before the 
Christian Era. 





CITURCHES HEWN FROM THE LIVING ROCK 


We then entered the village to see the 
churches—ten great monolithic buildings 
cut from a single stone ledge of red vol- 
canic tuff. 

Each church had been made by first 
excavating a courtyard of ample dimen- 
sions, leaving in the center a great block 
of stone the height of a three-story edi- 
fice. In this rock the building was carved, 


with the final effect of a structure of 
stone or concrete erected by modern ma- 
sons. The doorways are just as perfect, 
the walls as true, and the windows as 
numerous as if the churches were built of 
bricks. 

Inside there are pillars, and between 
them are arches dropping below the ceil- 
ing. There are altars, alcoves, and gal- 
leries. Yet the whole is from a single 
rock and, with the exception of minor 
repairs, made a hundred years ago, fol- 
lowing an earthquake, they are of one 
piece, from entrance to altar and from 
altar to roof. 

In the one known as the Church of 
Lalibela there are figures in relief against 
the wall. One of these represents a badly 
diseased young man He was disobedient 
and ran away when his father wished him 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY 


THE 


These festivals, the climax of the 
of believers. 


CHRISTMAS CELEBRA 


THROUGH ABYSSINIA 695 


a 


‘a ara 


re 4 x 
Ee s& 





Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


TIONS AT LALIBELA 


Coptic pageantry of Abyssinia, are witnessed by thousands 
Clad in gorgeous costumes and bearing sacred obje 





the priests encircle the 


walls about the Church of Mascali Jesus after three boys with whips have cleared the way. 


The procession required two hours to march around the church. 


Of the 30.000 pilgrims who 


liad gathered for the occasion, not more than 1,000 could see the whole pageant. 


to marry. The Lord punished him by 
afflicting him with an incurable ailment. 

In another of the churches are carvings 
on some of the pillars. One of these is 
a symbol akin to the Maltese cross. Be- 
cause of its possible significance in ap- 
proximating the period of construction, 
I desired to photograph it. Pictures, 
however, were hard to obtain. The 
churches were in deep holes, and parts of 
both courtyard and church were contin- 
ually in shadow. Inside, it was much 
worse. The windows were mostly ob- 
scured by the fretwork of stone left to 
decorate them, and little light penetrated 
to the interior. 

In order to furnish light, T had two 
men hold candles alongside the pillar and 
exposed a film for several minutes di- 
rectly at the candles. I was amazed later 
to find that I had secured a good negative 
of the cross (see page 653). 





In one of the principal churches there 
is a major column which extends past the 
gallery to the roof. It has been covered 
by cloth for centuries and is so sacred 
that no one is permitted to touch it. I 
would have given much to have seen be- 
neath it, for it was the most logical place 
of all for significant decoration. 

In some of the courtyards there are 
sacred pools, one of which contains water 
said to have been brought from the Jor- 
dan many years ago (see page 657). Ac- 
cording to the priests, it has not evap- 
orated or decreased. Incidentally, it may 
be mentioned that the courtyard drains 
directly into this basin. Indeed, these 
reservoirs were in all likelihood cut into 
the rock at the lowest point of the court- 
yards to afford drainage, as otherwise the 
water would stand about the churches in 
the rainy season. 

The largest of the churches is Medani 








THE UPPER THIRD OF THE MONOLITHIC CHURCH OF ST, GEORGE 


This edifice, one of the most beautiful of the rock churche 


groups of buildings. 
George is apparently the patron 





THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 





LALIBE 





A 


stands apart from the two 





It is in the form of a cross and a cross is carved upon its roof. St. 
int of Ethiopia, being the one commonly pictured and having 


many churches named for him. The natives of Lalibela point out footprints of the saint’s horse 
on the wall of a defile, said to have been made when he came to Lalibela to demand that a 


church be erected in his honor (see text below). 


Alam. The arched design of the interior 
is constructed as a relief on the roof, and 
is probably the feature referred to by 
Alvarez when he wrote of arches meeting 
above the roof of the churches. 


THE Lr 





‘DOF TI 
ST. GEORGE 


CHURCH OF 








There are two groups of churches, one 
of five and the other of four buildings, 
while the church of St. George stands 
alone. Between the courtyards of the 
churches are walls from 6 to 12 or even 
15 feet in width. In some, rooms are 
hollowed in the partitions, and in one 
a church has been excavated. The outer 
approaches to some of the churches are 
through inclined defiles. These are nar- 
row and very deep and were probably 
used in removing the excavated material 
during construction. 


One of the most beautiful of the 
churches is that of St. George, which is 
in the form of a cross, with a cross 
carved upon its roof. St. George seems 
to be the patron saint of Ethiopia. He is 
the one most commonly pictured, and 
churches without end are named for him. 

At Lalibela they have a fantastic tradi- 
tion that St. George was so displeased 
when he saw numerous churches being 
built in honor of others, that he mounted 
his horse and came galloping to demand 
that a church be erected to himself. They 
point out the footprints of his horse, 
which happen to be in the perpendicular 
wall of the inclined defile made in the 
process of excavating for the church, but 
this discrepancy apparently does not spoil 
a good story. 

The head priest himself was our guide 
and led us through the churches, pointing 











A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 





Photograph by Marry V. Tarlan 


A SACRED POOL IN LALIBELA 


This corner of a courtyard in the holy city of Abyssinia is said to contain water brought from 
the River Jordan (see text, page 655). 


out features without end. He showed us 
a representation of the trial of Christ; 
the tomb of Adam; a stone that no unbe- 
iever can lift, but which is easy for be- 
ievers; and other sacred marvels. 

\t last, while passing through a corri- 
dor, the holy man stopped and his servant 
held a chamma so as to conceal him. I 
discovered that he was removing his em- 
proidered trousers. ‘Trousers other than 
the loose pantaloon are a mark of rank 
and are supposed to be worn by such dig- 
nitaries as Ras Taffari, the Empress, and 
the head priest. The latter can change 
ais clothes only in the church, and as we 
had finished our tour, he was preparing 
to return to his home in comfort. 

The crowds of Lalibela were endless 
and we were in continual contact with 
persons suffering from many contagious 
or infectious diseases. Before the en- 
trance to Medani Alam we walked down 
a long aisle of lepers seated in the dirt, 
scores of them in the most advanced and 





repulsive stages of the disease. Behind 
the lepers were banks of invalids without 
number, hoping for miraculous cures. In 
the meantime they were not missing any 
chances to collect alms. 


THE TRAVELER'S FEAR OF INFECTION 
MUST BE DISREGARDED 

Years of travel in the Tropics causes 
one to lose, or at least to disregard, his 
fears of contracting certain appalling dis- 
eases. Familiar precautions are almost 
impossible to observe, and the conse- 
quences are soon looked upon from a 
fatalistic and unemotional viewpoint. 

Wandering among the crowds of lepers 
did not perturb us, but another event was 
not so pleasant. The head priest led us 
down, through a trapdoor in the floor of 
one of the churches, to an underground 
tunnel which was supposed to represent 
hell. The tunnel was a low, narrow, 
vaulted passageway which extended hori- 
zontally for some hundreds of feet before 








THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 








Photograph by E. A. Sal 





ury from Ewing Galloway 
AN ABYSSINIAN MAN-AT-ARMS 


Every noble of Abyssinia has followers who do no work, but are supplied with a gun and 
food by their leader. This man is of that type. The Abyssinian prefers to ride a mule except 
when on active war duty or traveling speedily. Note the narrow stirrup through which the 
footed soldier thrusts his big toe. The Abyssinian mounts from the right- instead of the 
and side. Nearly all warriors are equipped with swords as well as rifles (see also illus- 
trations, pages 626-62% 











A CARAVAN JOURNEY THROUGH ABYSSINIA 659 





Photograph by Harry V. Harlan 


THE REMAINS OF THE BETTER SECTION OF PORTUGUESE GONDAR 


That Gondar was a great city in its prime seems proved by its vast area of tumbled stone 
overgrown with brush, where the less important personages lived, and by another section, of 
beautiful stone walls, ruins of churches, monasteries, and medieval castles, where the officials 


were housed. 





it came to the surface again. In order to 
impress us with the full undesirability of 
hell, all candles were extinguished, and 
we felt our way along the walls in abso- 
lute darkness for many minutes. 

This experience is one of the major 
thrills of Lalibela to the pilgrims, and the 
walls were grimed by the thousands of 
hands that had felt their way through in 
the past few days. Many of those hands 
were deformed by leprosy and scores of 
others bore actively infectious ulcers and 
other ailments. 


WILIPS CLEAR WAY FOR PROCESSION 


Lalibela's Christmas morning came. 
The festivities began early. The crowds 
had assembled long before we arrived, 
but space was reserved for us on the wall 
of the partitions surrounding Mascali 
Jesus, the church where the celebration 
was to take place. A procession of 
priests, dancing and singing, was to en- 
circle the wall, while a second detachment 


An imposing, view is had over numerous blocks of walls toward the larger 
tle, with its towers notching the sky line (see text, pages 661 and 663). 


marched through the tightly 
courtyard about the church. 

Of the 30,000 pilgrims who came to 
witness the rites, not more than 1,000 
could have seen the whole, though the 
line of encircling priests must have been 
visible from all parts of the village. 

When the procession started, the walls 
where the priests were to go were 
jammed with spectators. At the head of 
the procession marched three youths car- 
rying long leather whips, with which they 
cleared the way. 

Such whipping is not resented here. 
In fact, we ourselves had been the cause 
of such chastisements. We were such a 
curiosity in Lalibela that hundreds of 
people followed us and ran ahead, crowd- 
ing about, impeding our movements. The 
head priest finally detailed men with 
whips to clear paths for us on our nu- 
merous trips through the villages during 
the three days of our stay. 

The people could do little else than 


packed 











660 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


pack more closely on the 
walls, as there were court- 
yards of other churches be- 
hind them. Pack they did, 
and slowly the procession 
advanced, stopping minutes 
at a time while songs were 
sung and dances per- 
formed (see page 655 

The costumes were even 
more gorgeous than on the 
day of our arrival. Every 
costume in the possession 
of the churches was worn 
by some one and every sa- 
cred object was transported 
for the public to look upon. 
The procession took fully 
two hours to encircle the 
church. 

Never will I forget one 
old priest who led in the 
music. His high-pitched, 
penetrating voice could be 
heard above those of all the 
hundreds singing. At sud- 
den and unexpected mo- 
ments it would seemingly 
pitch octaves higher, and 
just when he had reached 
what one supposed was the 
highest note of the human 
voice it would ascend again. 


Harlan 





> 
@ 





Photograp 












RUINS AT GONDAR 





17th century, but during their occup 


2 
2 
g 
: 
2 

a 
2 
a 

2 

< 
5 
Zo 


s lost in the maze of nebulous tradi 





THIRTY THOUSAND ABYS- 
SINIANS LEAVE LALIBELA 
SIMULTAN USLY 


PORTUC 








the 


in 


When the music stopped 
I made hasty adieus and 
rushed to my mules to get 
out of town ahead of the 
crowd. Thirty thousand 
Abyssinians did the same 
thing. We had sent our 
caravan on ahead and gal- 
loped down the mountain 
toward the Takkazye after 
it. We caught up with it 
in about three hours. 

We passed many more 
people than it seemed pos- 


dar 


yond 


imposing walls and buildings 


Gondar has the only well-constructed bi 
em (see text, page 663). 


m of these 


id conceived th: 






The Portuguese were expelled from ( 





$= sible could have been in the 
=2§ town. With a glass I 
3 ‘2. watched others as they 
<2 came, like ants, swarming 
=£2= along every road leaving 


A CARAVAN JOURNEY 


Lalibela. Even after we were camped by 
the Takkazye, miles away, they came in 
uninterrupted files. 

In the afternoon occasional breaks oc- 
curred in the lines, growing more and 
more frequent toward night. Occasion- 
ally lepers stopped to beg. Usually they 
were on muleback, it being the common 
custom to mount the sufferers when they 
can no longer walk. 

Hundreds of people camped beside us 
that night, and for days we saw them on 
the road, though most of them, traveling 
light, soon outstripped us. Many joined 
our caravan and camped with us all the 
way to Debra Tabor, and some accompa- 
nied us even to Gondar. 


COPTS OF EGYPT MAY HAVE AIDED CON- 
STRUCTION OF LALIBELA S CHURCHES 


It was only when we had marched a 
day or two from Lalibela that we could 
begin to digest our observations. The 
crowds had been too dense for a careful 
exploration of the churches and it had 
been difficult to take photographs. 

We did get a clue as to the most likely 
reason for the choice of the site. We 
were told of salt water in some of the 
recesses. Mineral and hot springs are 
common throughout Ethiopia. Salt water 
does have a disintegrating effect on the 
structure of many stones, and it is prob- 
able that the churches first constructed 
were in a part of the ledge where the 
rock was weakened. In the southern 
group there are one or two churches the 
roofs of which are not cleared. These 
are of the cave type frequently found in 
temples of India. In my opinion, these 
were the first churches excavated. 

As to who engineered the rock churches 
T cannot guess. They are commonly 
ascribed to Lalibela, who reigned in the 
twelfth century, and there is an undated 
inscription in Arabic which credits them 
to him. They are unlike anything else 
that the Abyssinian builds or has built. 
Advice or even labor may have been se- 
cured from the Coptic church-builders of 
Egypt. 

We were soon back in the routine of 
travel and Lalibela was far behind us. 
‘The road to Debra Tabor is an old, well- 
traveled one, with plenty of game along 
the way. 





THROUGH ABYSSINIA 661 

One day two of our men engaged in a 
dispute. They wanted a formal trial, so 
they appointed a judge and argued the 
case as they herded the animals along the 
trail. Tlour after hour the jabber con- 
tinued, until the elected jurist rendered a 
decision. The cause was of no impor- 
tance; the trial itself was the thing (see 
page 644). 

Abyssinians will hold a trial anywhere. 
At Lalibela we were following the head 
priest through a deep defile to a church 
whose chief priest appeared on the rim 
30 or 40 feet above. The latter informed 
his superior that it was a holiday, and 
that he would not open the church for us 
if they cut his throat for his refusal. 

He was immediately brought to trial 
and the arguments proceeded, the head 
priest shouting up and the chief of the 
church shouting down. After the dis- 
pute had gone on and on, one of my men 
brought the case to an unexpected close 
by asking how we strangers were to tell 
whether or not Lalibela had built the 
church if we did not see it. 

The church priest immediately yielded 
and we explored the building to our satis- 
faction. 

At Debra Tabor we called upon Ras 
Gougsa, the husband of the Empress, who 
for reasons of state is not allowed to 
come to Addis Ababa. 

Soon after leaving this town we came 
in sight of Lake Tsana, the headwaters 
of the Blue Nile. 


GONDAR TITAS IMPOSING RUINS 


Near the lake we first came upon re- 
mains of structures built by the Portu- 
guese, who, after being established in 
Gondar for more than a hundred years, 
were expelled by Fasilidas in the years 
1632 to 1635. During the time of their 
occupancy they built much and built well. 
We crossed bridges that had received no 
care in 300 years, but which were still 
structurally strong, despite the crumbled 
halustrades. 

In Gondar itself we saw the only well- 
constructed buildings in Abyssinia, other 
than the monolithic churches. ‘They had 
not been occupied for centuries, but some 
of them could even now be made habitable 
by replacing the burned floors and roofs. 





A CARAVAN JOURNEY 


In one or two the beamed ceilings were 
still in place (see pages 659-660). 

Gondar, now a village, must have been 
a great city in its prime. There is a vast 
area of tumbled stone overgrown with 
brush, where the less important person- 
ages lived, and there is another area of 
beautiful stone walls, remains of churches, 
monasteries, and the ruins of medieval 
castles, where the officials were housed. 
It is an imposing sight to look over these 
blocks and blocks of walls toward the 
larger castle, which still rears its towers 
against the sky hundreds of miles from 
navigable water or railhead. 

It must have been a long journey from 
Portugal when the city was founded. 
The story of the actual construction is 
lost in the maze of nebulous tradition 
which surrounds all Abyssinian history, 
but whether or not the later buildings 
were constructed as palaces for kings 
after the Portuguese expulsion, the hardy 
Jesuit pioneers were responsible. 

No Abyssinian mind conceived those 
buildings and no Abyssinian supervised 
their construction. 

From Gondar we took the road to 
Gallabat, just over the border in the Su- 
dan, by way of Chelga and Wahni. 

Due to the sparse population, game 
was abundant, but we did not hunt ex- 
cept when meat was needed. As food, we 
much preferred birds, which were plenti- 
ful the whole distance. I bagged as many 
as eight guinea fowl with one shot of a 
16-gauge shotgun. ‘These birds were by 
far the most delicious meat we had, and 
we were able to obtain them easily except 
on the high plateau, where we ate par- 
tridge, wild duck, wild pigeon, and oc- 
casionally other birds we could not 
identify. We assumed that they were 
edible, and certainly Ferredja made them 
taste as if they were. 

With the men of my caravan the situa- 
tion was different. They required a 
greater meat supply, and when cattle and 
sheep were not available we shot game 
for them, ‘The Christians could not eat 
meat of animals killed by the Mohamme- 
dans. The Mohammedans could not eat 
meat of animals killed by the Christians. 
Neither could eat game killed by Mr. 


THROUGH ABYSSINIA 663 
Sewall or myself, unless they could reach 
it while it was still struggling and could 
cut its throat in the name of Mohammed 
or the Savior, as the case might be. 

Often they had ample time, for neither 
of us was an infallible shot. Mr. Sewall 
had hunted very little, but killed most of 
the game toward the end of the trip. 

Beyond Chelga, one day I sighted 
several very large water bucks and Mr. 
Sewall started after them. He brought 
one down at long range, but did not kill 
it, and exhausted his few cartridges while 
following it. One of the guards stole 
around a hill and shot the buck in the side. 
It is doubtful if the bullet from his home- 
made cartridge broke the skin. 

Then my muleman decided that it was 
time the beast died. He was an enormous 
fellow—tall, thin, and as active as a cat. 
He drew his hunting knife, soon overtook 
the running buck, and stabbed it in the 
side. But big animals are hard to kill. 
The wounded creature whirled on its 
pursuer, but he evaded its horns and 
stabbed it again as it started to run. The 
performance was repeated time after 
time until the buck finally dropped. The 
Christians gorged themselves that night. 


THE CARAVAN, AUGMENTED, REACHES 
GALLABAT 


The day before we reached Gallabat 
all hands fell to and washed and scrubbed 
for the morrow. ‘The next morning our 
caravan, managed by servants in spotless 
white, got under way. 

The countryside felt the urge of a 
parade. Soldier after soldier joined our 
escort. They came flocking in from every 
side trail. 3y the time we reached 
Metemma, on the Abyssinian side of the 
boundary from Gallabat, we had all the 
appearance of an invading force. The 
natives under officers of Gallabat ran to 
their commanders, saying, “What shall 
we do? This man brings an army!” 

How our hearts sank when we sighted 
the iron roofs of Gallabat! ‘There was 
a telegraph line; a broad road ran up the 
hill; two days beyond by auto was a rail- 
road—several days up the Nile from 
Cairo, it was true—but a railroad. Our 
caravanning was over. 








BLACK-HEADED GULLS IN LONDON 


By A. Hi 


With Mlustrations from Ph 


HE winter of 1894-95 was ex- 

ceptionally severe in London, and 

some black-headed gulls (Larus 
ridibundus), driven to the haunts of man 
by the difficulty in obtaining food else- 
where, visited the Thames. 

The inhabitants treated the birds 
kindly and fed them liberally, and in 
succeeding winters the visitors came back 
in increasing numbers. 

In the early years of this century it 
was quite the vogue to go down to West- 
minster Bridge, the Itmbankment, and 
London Bridge, and purchase twopenny 
bags of sprats from itinerant venders, 
who did a flourishing business on fine 
days. The birds exhibited remarkable 
aptitude in catching the small fish in mid- 
air, and also evinced amazing audacity. 
I have even seen a man catch one of the 
gulls by the legs as it hovered, ready to 
take a sprat held in the fingers. 

‘The gulls gradually increased in num- 
bers, and not only frequented the ‘Thames, 
where they are now to be found as far 
west as Windsor, but also invaded the 
ponds and open waters of the London 
parks. Flocks were to be seen in St. 
James Park, the Round Pond at Kensing- 
ton, and elsewhere. 








BIRDS NEGLECTED DURING THE WAR 


During the World War the birds were 
somewhat neglected, but still continued to 
obtain a better living on the Thames than 
in wilder districts, though the ponds dur- 
ing this period were drained of water 
because they provided excellent land- 
marks, which enabled hostile aircraft 
definitely to determine their positions. 

After the war these sheets of water 
were again restored, and the birds re- 
turned in great numbers. The workers 
in the city offices make a practice of keep- 
ing scraps and feeding the gulls at the 
luncheon hour, so that extraordinarily 
large flocks now succeed in obtaining an 
livelihood from October to March. 

The gulls are so quick and bold that 
the ducks on the ornamental waters of 
the parks stand a poor chance of getting 
any of the doles provided by the strollers. 

As a study in problems of flight, these 





664 


Hai 


otographs by the Author 

hirds on the wing are of unusual interest. 
Their remarkable control and the way 
several individuals will dash without a 
collision for the same morsel of food are 
sources of constant amusement and com- 
ment. 


GULLS SHOW PARTIALITY POR CHE 





There are no supplies of sprats now 
readily available, and though, like all 
gulls, these birds are practically omnivo- 
rous, and eat with avidity the stale bread 
which is usually supplied, they show a 
marked partiality for cheese, being quite 
as eager for this as for fish, 

Even when the gulls are feeding regu- 
larly, taking pieces of bread from the 
hand, a newcomer has only to appear with 
some lumps of cheese and the diners im- 
mediately desert their cereal repast and 
literally besiege the dispenser of their 
favorite morsels. 

The birds vary greatly in boldness. 
Those which come first to the bait are 
attended by numbers of others. which 
flutter a few feet off and scream their dis- 
appointment at not getting the food also. 

It is very noticeable what a difference 
a drop in temperature of a few degrees 
will make. One mild day will see the 
gulls greedy, but somewhat discreet; the 
next day, with a lower temperature, they 
will be absolutely ravenous, and I have on 
such occasions held lumps of cheese close 
to my face, when the gulls in taking the 
bait would fly near enough to brush my 
cheeks with their wings. 

Hold out a piece of cheese in a small 
tin box, and, while great interest will he 
shown and much screaming will go on 
overhead, not one gull will venture to 
take a bite. 

To photograph these birds in flight is 
entertaining, but very difficult. The fast- 
est exposure is necessary, and when too 
many gulls come into the field of view, 
the picture is usually spoiled by confusion 
of detail. 

It is worthy of note in the accompany- 
ing illustrations, pages 665 to 672, that 
many of the postures are very different 
from the conventional attitudes depicted 
by artists. 


ACES OF AVIATION 665 


scat. 24 








© A. H. Hall 


WITH PINIONS RAISED: THREE BLACK-HEADED GULLS ON THE THAMES 
EMBANKMENT, LONDON 


666 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





NECK RACE FOR A MORSEI, TOSSED IN AIR 








@A.H, Hall 


AERIAL VISITORS WINTERING IN LONDON 


ACES OF AVIATION 667 





© A. HI, Hall 
PHOTOGRAPH MADE WITIL A THOUSANDTH OF A SECOND EXPOSURE 





GAAUAS LSuld “AINOD LSsult 


in Ww vO 


NOTLOV OLNI ONIOD 





668 


WS [MY Ul pposuy Surssaaas st pue (4sauso yoy 


doddn ati ul uaas) ssaayd 10 y1q ay} passiuu s 





DUNOIBIIOZ OY} UL [[NS a1 J, -peay aIPpOIOYS YsRp 9y 


MIV GIN NI VINvsyswos Vv 





Wi Hv @ 


‘AWEU SH SAALIap Ht YD: 








Moys 





A WoOsy osvunjd Surpaaig au} ‘siayyeay 
1 Suruuisaq st payysye sey yy psig ayy, 


ISVs AHL YOd ALV'T 





669 





670 THE NATIONAL GROGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





A STUDY IN AERONAUTICS 





@A. IL Hall 
A FOOD QUEUE ON THE PARAPET OF THE THAMES EMBANKMENT 


ACES OF AVIATION 671 





TOURNAMENT FLYING 





@A.H. Hall 
Y ART 





IONAL ATTITUDES: WING POSTURES NEVER SE 





O72 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MASAZINE 





IN HOT PURSUIT: NOTE HOW THE PURSUED BIRD IS “BANKING HIS TURN” 


Pometee 





@A. II. Tall 
BIRD OF THE BROAD AND SWEEPING WING 





The black-headed gulls usually leave the Thames by the end of March and go to their nesting 
haunts at Scoulton Mere in Norfolk, at various places in Lancashire, and farther north. 


TO SEEK THE 


UNKNOWN 


IN THE ARCTIC 


United States Navy Flyers to Aid MacMillan Expedition 
Under the Auspices of the National Geographic 


Society in Exp 


ITHIN a few days of the time 

\ \ / when this number of their Maga- 

zine reaches the members, an 
Arctic expedition under the auspices of 
the National Geographic Society will sail 
from Wiscasset, Maine, for Etah, Green- 
land. During the summer months it is 
hoped that many thousand square miles 
of hitherto-unexplored area north of 
Seaufort Sea will be revealed to the 
world by geographers bearing the Stars 
and Stripes. 

With the approval of President Cool- 
idge and the Hon. Curtis D. Wilbur, 
Secretary of the Navy, this work is to 
be undertaken by the MacMillan Arctic 
Expedition, with the codperation of the 
United States Navy. The Board of 
‘Trustees of the National Geographic So- 
ciety has appropriated $40,000 from the 
Research Fund to aid in defraying the 
expenses. ‘The leader, Donald B. Mac- 
Millan, well known to members of ‘The 
Society, has been active in Arctic ex- 
ploration since 1908, when he was one of 
Peary’s lieutenants on the expedition 
which resulted in the attainment of the 
North Pole, April 6, 1909. 

The MacMillan party will go north on 
two ships—the Peary, a converted French 
trawler, and the Bowdoin, a staunch craft 
which has already written its name large 
in Arctic exploration, having carried 
Commander MacMillan to the Far North 
on two previous expeditions. 

By invitation of the city of Boston. the 
vessels will sail from that port for Wis- 
casset on June 17, Bunker Hill Day. 

The trawler Peary will be used pri- 
marily to transport the United States 
Na recently perfected Loening am- 
phibian airplanes, capable of landing both 
on the water and on the ice. ‘The oper- 
ation of the planes and Navy personnel 
will be under the direction of Lieutenant 
Commander R. E. Byrd, U. S. N. 

The Navy is holding in readiness its 
two great airships, the Shenandoah and 
the Los Angeles, to send to the relief of 




















loring Vast Area 
the expedition should it encounter unfore- 
seen difficulties. 


MANY BRANCIIES OF SCIENCE TO BE 
REPRESENTED 





On board the Bowdoin will be a group 
of distinguished scientists, including an 
ichthyologist, a geologist, and a meteorolo- 
gist. Among the tasks of the first named 
will be the study of several kinds of 
salinon and trout. 

The meteorologist will be an especially 
important member of the party, as a 
study of atmospheric conditions at vari- 
ous altitudes can be made with the aid 
of the Navy planes. His work will prove 
of value for the future, if commercial air 
lanes are established over Arctic regions, 
in flights from England and Newfound- 
land to Japan. Data may also be obtained 
which will aid in weather forecasting for 
the United States. 

‘The unexplored area, which it is hoped 
can be penetrated by means of airplanes, 
with bases established on Axel Heiberg 
Island, lies between the Alaska Penin- 
sula and the North Pole, and is shown on 
maps and globes by a white spot repre- 
senting approximately one million square 
miles of the earth’s surface. 

Other unknown areas where explora- 
tions will he made include central Illes- 
mere Island and Grant Land, the northern 
part of the great Greenland ice cap, the 
northern part of Labrador, and the entire 
interior of Baffin Island, believed to he a 
land of thousands of lakes and bountiful 
animal and bird life (see map, page 674). 

The headquarters of the expedition 
will be established at Etah. From this 
hase gasoline and other supplies can be 
relaved to Cane Thomas Hubbard, Axel 
Heiberg Island, at the edge of the Polar 
Sea, for the use of the Navy's amphibian 
aircraft. 

From Cape Hubbard to the center of 
the great unknown area is, roughly, 600 
miles—a distance which could be accom- 
plished by an airplane having a cruising 








673 




































674 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 
7m 30 7 ] 
NORTH POLE —— ] 
= by Peary | H 
= = April 8. 1909 ——_ i 
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MAP SHOWING FIELD OF ACTIVITY OF THE MAC MILLAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION UNDER 
THE AUSPICES OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 


The Peary and the Bowdoin will sail from Wiscasset, Maine, for Etah, Greenland, touch- 
ing en route at Sydney, Nova Scotia, and Hopedale, Labrador, The main ship base will be 
established at Etah, and an airplane base will be established at Cape Thomas Hubbard, Axel 
Heiberg Island. From the latter it is hoped that the amphibian U. S. Navy planes can fly 


over much of the unexplored area lying between Alaska and the North Pole. 


Other objects 


of the expedition will be to explore by plane the great ice cap of northern Greenland, the 
interior of Baffin Island, and a portion of north-central Labrador. 


radius of 1,200 miles. It is hoped that 
by the use of extra fuel tanks the am- 
phibian planes can cover this distance in 
one continuous flight. 

DENMARK CONSENTS TO STUDY OF 

NORSE RUINS 

Through the courtesy of the Govern- 
ment of Denmark, to whom the entire 
Island of Greenland belongs, the Mac- 
Millan party will be permitted to study 
the remains of old Norse settlements es- 
tablished in the southern portion of the 
island some 1,500 years ago, It is esti- 


mated that there are 100 farms of early 
Norsemen and some stone churches near 
Julianehaab, and some 90 farms and 24 
stone churches built by the Norsemen in 
the vicinity of Godthaab. The reason for 
visiting and studying these ruins is to 
establish, if possible, a connection between 
the houses built by the Norsemen and 
those that have been found in Labrador, 
which, according to the Eskimos, were 
built by “strange people, who came in 
from the sea in open boats without masts 
and without sails.” 


TO SEEK THE UNKNOWN IN THE ARCTIC 


Commander Ma c- 
Millan will report all 
findings of the expe- 
dition by radio in 
telegraphic code to 
the National Geo- 
graphic Society, and 
the news will be given 
immediately to the 
world through the 
daily press by The 
Society. In receiving 
the code messages 
from the Far North, 
the codperation of 
American radio ama- 
teurs will be relied 
upon. 


WILL MAKE ATTEMPT 
TO BROADCAST TALKS 
FROM THE ARCTIC 


Effort will be made 
to have the spoken 
word from the expe- 


dition leader broad- 
cast to American 
homes. The  trans- 


mission of the radio 
messages, during the 
24 daylight hours, 
across a_ hitherto 
“dead zone,” by the 
new short wave- 
lengths, will consti- 
tute in itself an ex- 
periment in commu- 
nication of scientific 
value. 

Of special interest 
to all of the members of the National 
Geographic Society, each of whom has a 
share in the financial support of the 
pedition, will be the provisions which are 
being made for photographing the won- 
ders of the Far North. For the first time 
in Arctic exploration, natural-color pho- 
tographs will be made. It is believed that 
these color plates of the marine life, the 


gles. 









THE LEADER OF 


THE MAC MILLAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION 


The commander is rather successfully disguised by his snow gog- 
He has in his arms three young eider ducks taken on Littleton 
Island, near Etah, Greenland, last July. 


flora, including the beautiful “red snow,” 
and of the experiments to record photo- 
graphically the Northern Lights will 
prove valuable contributions to science. 

Commander MacMillan’s detailed ac- 
count of the work of the expedition will 
appear in the Nationa, GrocrarHic 
Macaztne shortly after the leader’s re- 
turn to civilization. 





676 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, 





Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 
EIGHT-YEAR-OLD ME-GISH-00, OF NORTH GR 





AND 


The present native population of Greenland is about 14,000 and is mostly confined to the 
west coast. Little Me-gish-oo shows the friendly, happy characteristics of her people (see also 
page 718). One of the objects of the MacMillan Arctic Expedition under the auspices of the 
National Geographic Society is to make a study of the Smith Sound Eskimos, to which tribe 
this girl belongs. 





THE 


Arctic 


“BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 


Explorers Place ‘Vablet to Commemorate Sacrifices 


of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition 


By Donatp B. MacMirian 





oie MaeMiitax ARcrie EX 
My ator 


Lraner OF 





NE of the objectives of the Bow- 
doin on the Arctic xpedition of 
1923-1924 was Cape Sabine, on 

the eastern shore of Ellesmere Island, 
where, at the request of the members and 
Board of ‘Trustees of the National Geo- 
graphic Society, we were to place a tablet 
in memory of the members of the Lady 
Franklin Bay Expedition who died there 
of starvation in the spring of 1884. 

The Bowdoin, named atter my college, 
was built on the Maine coast especially 
for Aretie work. Although the smallest 
vessel ever to go into the Far North, she 
is undoubtedly one of the strongest, hav- 
ing been built of well-seasoned timber, 
oak-ribbed, oak-planked, covered with a 
five-foot encircling belt of ironwood, and 
a 1,700-pound steel plate on her stem to 
take the brunt of her battle with ice floes. 








TILE 





NPEDITION REACTIES ETAIL 


We sailed from Wiscasset, Maine, June 
23, 1923, and after a voyage of numerous 
minor adventures, the Bowdoin rounded 
Cape Alexander and sighted Ftah at mid- 
night of August 7, with the sun bathing 
every promontory and ice cap in a soft 
yellow light. 

The bold north shore, with its gentle 
green slope culminating in its 1,000-foot 
cliff, was beautiful, with its blues. greens, 
purples, and reds blending into the pat- 
tern of a gigantic oriental rug. 

The waters of the fiord, placid as a 
mirror, reflected the contour of the bor- 
dering hills, strikingly black in contrast 
with the gleaming white of the glacier 
crowning the head of tah harbor and 
dropping gently into the clear waters of 
Alida Lake. 

The hush of midnight, which steals 
quietly over the Northland as the sun 
swings along the northern horizon, was 
broken only by the musical sound of fall- 
ing waters. 








ar “PRAY as A Lacan,” 


NON, UNDER UE Auspices or Vie Neviowat Grocraraie Society, 
iy caine Nationan Ge 





TRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





One point alone was not attractive, the 
site of our home of 1913-1917. It seemed 
so strange, so unreal, to look up and find 
it gone! ‘Thirty-five feet square, eight 
rooms, a large, comfortable living room, 
four bedrooms, a carpenter shop, gener- 
ator room, dark room, all electrically 
lighted, with double windows, double 
walls—a real home to welcome us back 
from long, cold trips—now a flat, débris- 
covered slope, “a tragical vista of pathetic 
scraps.” 

The morning after our arrival we left 
Etah for Cape Sabine, 30 miles distant. 
‘There was not a particle of ice in sight 
from the crow’s nest. Open water ex- 
tended apparently to the Pole itself. When 
within 10 miles of Cape Sabine, how- 
ever, ice seemed fairly to pop up out of 
the sea, and lay in one solid jam against 
Hesmere Island from Cape Isabella 
northward. ‘This disappearance and re- 
appearance of drift ice is so astonishing 
that Newfoundland fishermen declare 
that it rises from the bottom and sinks 
beneath the surface. 

Running along its edge, we examined 
the drift ice carefully for open water ; it 
presented an unbroken front. 1 decided 
to return to Etah and await a more favor- 
able opportunity to erect the memorial. 














THE TRAGIC STORY OF TILE GREELY PARTY 





Upon the northern side of Cape Sabine 
is the site of the Greely Camp of 1883- 
84. The 23 officers and enlisted men of 
the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, with 
two Eskimos, under command of L,ieu- 
tenant Adolphus W. Greely, landed at 
Wade Point, 16 miles southwest of Cape 
Sabine, following their memorable retreat 
in boats from Fort Conger, 220 miles 
north. It was here that they fully ex- 
pected to meet the relief ship sent by the 
United States Government. 





Go= 


678 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





GODTHAAB, CAPITAL OF SOUTITERN GREENLAND 


This tiny “metropolis” has about 400 inhabitants and more modern buildings than most of the 
other settlements of the Danish colony. 





Photographs by Donald [. MacMillan 


THE WHALER’S LOOKOUT AT GODHAVN: DISKO ISLAND 


This curious relic of 1782 is made of boards nailed to four large pieces of whale jaw. 
Seamen and explorers have cut their names on the hut’s walls, and some of the dates go back 
to 1811. The cannon in the foreground was used to announce to the fleet the sighting of a 
whale or the rupture of the ice pack. Godhavn, the Lievely of English and Scotch whalemen, 
is the capital of the North Greenland Inspectorate. In its harbor almost all American Arctic 
expeditions, and many British, have anchored. 


THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 


KOO-K- 





TING RAW 





sis 





Photograph by Donald 1. MacMillan 
WILALE 


WHITE MEAT 


This flesh is a great delicacy to the Smith Sound Eskimo, while the oil, like that of the narwhal, 
is used for heating and lighting purposes. 


A note left in a cairn at Cape Sabine 
advised the explorers that this relief ship 
had been crushed in the ice, but a cache 
of supplies had been landed. ‘The party 
decided to abandon their partially con- 
structed quarters at Wade Point to settle 
beside the cache, where a second ship 
would naturally seek them. 

Then began a long and hopeless fight 
against cold, darkness, and starvation. 
When the sun first touched the roof of 
their wretched rock hovel on March 12 
after its absence of five months, only one 
of the brave little band was missing, but 
six died in April, four more in May, and 
seven in June. When Schley reached 
their camp, on June 22, there were only 
seven survivors. 


RADIO ANNOUNCES ARRIVAT, 
PARTY 


OF THE 


No tablet or memorial of any kind had 
ever been erected to these soldiers of the 
United States Army, who truly died upon 
the field of honor. But in the hold of 
the Bowdoin we were bringing a beauti- 
ful bronze tablet to be erected at Cape 


Sabine by the National Geographic So- 
ciety (see pages 700 and 700). 

We established our winter quarters in 
Refuge Harbor, an ideal location, which 
had been utilized by the Kane Expedition 
of 1853-55. 

Here we began unloading the Bowdoin 
on August 18, and on Sunday, August 19, 
through wireless telegraphy, we reported 
our arrival and the general good health 
of all the members of the expedition. 

3y September 6 the harbor was so 
firmly frozen over that my men, all new 
to the north, thought we were in for the 
winter. The next morning the ice had 
disappeared completely. So it continued, 
alternately freezing and breaking until 
September 22, when the thermometer 
dropped to 10 above zero, resulting in a 
fine layer of skim ice over the harbor. 

By October 18 the hills were white 
with snow and harbor ice was strong 
enough to bear the men anywhere with 
safety. The Bowdoin was in her ice 
cradle for the winter. 

The sun had been on its long journey 
south since June 21, each day a little 









AS 


680 





ARRIVING IN THE VICINITY OF ETAH ON MAY 15 





LITTLE AUKS 





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681 


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682 


THE “BOWDOLN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 683 


shorter and each night a little longer, and 
finally the day arrived, October 25, when 
it bade us good-bye for 117 days, not to 
return until February 18, 1924. The 
high hills which bordered our harbor had 
cut off the sun’s rays for two weeks prior 
to this day, so that our sunless period 
was really of 132 days’ duration. 

Contrary to popular opinion, we did 
not experience continuous darkness in the 
Aretic from the date of the sun's depar- 
ture until its return in the spring. Our 
nights were dark throughout this period, 
as they are in the United States, but our 
days at Refuge Harbor were twilight 
during the whole time. 


SNOW BLANKET MAKES THE “BOWDOIN” 
SNUG 

Looking ahead to temperatures of 50° 
and 60° below zero, we surrounded our 
little ship with a wall of snow about three 
feet in thickness and reaching to the rail. 

Three snow houses were built on deck, 
one over my after-cabin, one over the 
main hatch, by which the boys reached 
the forecastle, and one over the forward 
hatch, to be used as a ventilating shaft 
for the crew's quarters (see illustration, 
page OY). 

Previous Arctic expeditions have been 
seriously inconvenienced by the accumu- 
lation of ice on the walls of the cabins, 
formed by condensation of the breath and 
of steam from the cooking. “The Bow- 
doin, especially built for Arctic work, with 
a double inside sheathing, was remarkably 
free from this trouble. On the Roosevelt, 
of the Peary Polar Expedition, bedclothes 
and books even froze to the walls, and 
frequently we were compelled to chop ice 
from our cabin floors, especially in my 
stateroom, which adjoined the cook’s 
quarters. 

The Bowdoin was so well protected hy 
the wall of snow that our quarters were 
dry and comfortable at all times. With 12 
tons of coal beneath our floor, and plenty 
of fuel for small oil stoves, we were very 
happy through the long, dark period. 


RADIO 
BLS. 


CONTACTS WITIL 
«» ENGLAND, AND 


PRINCE RUPERT, 
GERMANY 

It has always been a question in the 
minds of people at home as to just how 
we spend our time during the Arctic 
night. First, let me say that the Bowdoin 


was electrically lighted, which added 
much to our happiness. Second, we were 
provided with a good library, musical in- 
struments, and all kinds of games, of 
which Mah Jong seemed to be the favor- 
ite. Third, and best of all, was our radio, 
Upon leaving home I had no faith in this 
item of our equipment, for it seemed im- 
possible that our little 100-watt station 
could keep in touch with the busy world 
to the south, and with our homes 3,000 
miles distant. 

Our radio equipment included two re- 
ceivers of the standard Zenith circuit 
type, one for the reception of amateur, 
ship, and commercial land station radio 
telegrams, as well as programs from 
broadcasting stations; and the other a 
high-wave receiver to enable us to copy 
news, weather forecasts, etc., from trans- 
oceanic radio telegraph stations in various 
parts of the world. 

The performance of our radio trans- 
mitter, of the same make, was marvelous, 
especially in consideration of its small 
power—only 100 watts—as contrasted 
with the average broadcasting stations’ 
power of from 1,000 to 5,000 watts. It 
was of the close coupled type, using 500 
cycle a. c. plate supply, with one tube on 
either side of the cycle, and  storage- 
battery-operated throughout. It was nec- 
essary to limit our transmitting power to 
100 watts in order to conserve the fuel 
used in operating the generator which 
charged our batteries. 

Our voices were not heard in the States, 
but we hope that this record can be estab- 
lished by the expedition this summer. 

Thousands of people in the United 
States listened every Wednesday night 
to our friends broadcasting to us from 
gXN, Chicago, and wondered if we could 
possibly be hearing them. We never 
failed to pick up that station through the 
months of October, November, Decem- 
ber, and January. 

We often recognized the voices of our 
friends. On several occasions | heard 
ms ter’s voice distinctly. On several 
Sunday nights we heard ministers reading 
the Bible, uttering their prayers, preach- 
ing their sermons, and choirs singing 
hymns. 

The four stations most consistently 
heard were Calgary, Canada; 9XN, Chi- 























ALNAY: 


Her 12-foot pole terminates in a wide dip net, with whi 
the little auks, or dovekies, known to Cape Cod fishermen as “pine knots.” 
is the glaucous gull, which often seizes an auk in mid-air and swallows 


throat. 


cago; WOC, Davenport, Iowa; and 
WOAW, Omaha, Nebraska. 

We sent out to the world 32,000 words 
in telegraphic code, received chiefly by 
oBP, Jack Barnsley, Prince Rupert, B.C. 
We received 100,000 words by code from 
the boys of the American Radio Relay 
League, from Leatfield, England, and 
from POZ, Nauen, Germany. very 
evening at 5 o'clock we picked up the 
Inglish station, and promptly at 6 p. m. 
the German station, giving us the news 
of the world. 

My operator, with the typewriter in 
front of him and phones on his ears, 
typed the news, and every night as we 
went forward to our supper under the 
snow, there, on the dining table, lay the 
daily news sheet. This served to break 
the monotony of the dark period and was 
eagerly welcomed by each member of the 
expedition. 

On Christmas and New Year’s we re- 
ceived many messages from our relatives 
and friends at home, including the fol- 
lowing greeting: 

“Teven in its days of deepest distress 
the Greely Expedition made Christmas a 
day of rejoicing and praise. Our most 
earnest desire was knowledge of the 








THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by Donald B, MacMillan 


AH STARTING FOR AUKS! ETAH 





1 slie sweeps the air expertly for 
Their chief enemy 


t whole into the lower 








health and happiness of the dearest ones 
athome. Science and circumstances spare 
you such doubts. The National Geo- 
graphic Society sends this Christmas 
message of good cheer to all members of 
the MacMillan Expedition, with its as- 
surance that their health and success are 
dear to our hearts. Happy New Year. 
“A. W. GREELY.” 


DATLY EXERCISE—WALKING, 


ING AND SKIING 


SNOWSITOE- 


Because of our meteorological observa- 
tions for the United States Government, 
and our magnetic work for the Depart- 
ment of Terrestrial Magnetism, Carnegie 
Institution of Washington, D. C., we 
were regular in our habits, having break- 
fast at 9, dinner at 3, and supper at 8 in 
the evening. 

Nearly every man took exercise regu- 
larly, walking on bright moonlight nights 
far from the ship, repairing our snow 
wall, shoveling snow from the entrances, 
tending and feeding the dogs, snowshoe- 
ing, and skiing. The boys generally re- 
tired at midnight, to be called promptly 
at 8:30 in the morning. 

Much has been said concerning this de- 
pressing period of darkness. Very little, 





THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 685 





A BOATLOAD OF 4,000 EIDER DUCK EGGS 


Both the explorers and the natives prize this addition to the winter's food supply. 








YOUNG ERIDER DUCKS IN THEIR NE 





AT LITTLE! 


The northern eider breeds on the islands of the Greenland and Ellesmere Island coasts. 
Four thousand eggs may often be gathered from one small island in a few hours. The beautiful 
king eider arrives at Etah in May with the northern eider and frequents the same coasts, 


fON ISLAND IN MID-JULY 


GS6 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Phote 


A WATERFALL IN NORTH GREENLAND NEAR PORT FOULKE 


raph by Donald B, MacMillan 





In summer the musical sound of falling water greets the ear all along the west coast 
of Greenland. 


THE “BOWDOIN"” IN NORTH GREENLAND 


SEA BATITING I2 DEGREES FROM 





Photograph by Donald 1. MacMillan 
THE NORTH 





ROLE: 


tah, the most northern settlement in the world, consists of only five black holes in a 





sloping hil 
rise 1,100 feet from the water's edge. 


ide, and in some years these are not inhabited. 
It is here that the MacMillan E 


The cliffs of its beautiful harbor 
ixpedition of 1925, under 





the auspices of the National Geographic Society, will establish its main base (see text, page 673). 


however, has been written about the long 
moonlight periods of each month, when 
the moon comes above the horizon and 
remains there continuously. It swung 
around in a great circle over our heads, 
about ten days each month, and turned 
the région into a veritable fairyland. 

During these wonderful times, we 
traveled hundreds of miles with our dogs 
to visit the Eskimos in their homes to the 
south, where we always found much of 
interest in the study of their domestic life. 

The nearest village was Nerky, 60 
miles by sledge route to the south on 
Inglefield Bay. ‘To reach it we had to 
sledge over the sea ice, closely following 
the land to Cape Alexander. Here we 
crossed a tongue of the Great Mer de 
Glace and went galloping along the shore 
to Peteravik, and then on down past the 
face of another glacier. There were 
many exciting experiences in working on 
slippery ice slopes, where a drop into the 
sea would mean death. 


As soon as the Eskimos learned that 
we were in winter quarters at Refuge 
Harbor, visitors were coming and going 
throughout the winter, All were eager 
to hear the strange voices coming through 
the air, and to see our 20,000 feet of mo- 
tion pictures, which brought forth many 
an “Ooh” and “Ah” at the wonders of 
civilized life. 





BRONZE TABLET OF TILE NATIONAL GKO- 
GRAPHIC SOCIETY IS ERECTED 


Since we had failed the preceding 
summer to reach Cape Sabine, 30 miles 
to the northwest, on the shore of Flles- 
mere Island, our first duty in the spring 
was to carry out the request of the N 
tional Geographic Society—to place its 
bronze memorial in the center of the 
Greely Camp. 

Early in May I left the ship, accompa- 
nied by my faithful dog-driver, .-took-a- 
shoo; his brother, WKa-ko-tchee-ah, and 
my Labrador boy, Abram Broomfield, on 





688 THE NATIONAL 
a reconnaissance to examine the condition 
of the ice of Smith Sound, and to select 
a suitable place for the tablet. 

We crossed the Sound in seven hours, 
and reached the site of the Greely Camp 
in a blinding snowstorm. The remains 
of the rock hut could still be seen project- 
ing from the snow. 

Walking through the little valley to 
Cemetery Ridge, where many of the bod- 
ies were found by the relief party in the 
spring of 1884, we came upon the ring of 
rocks which had held down the tent of 
the starving men. .\ bare spot in this 
vicinity was still littered with the remains 
of their camp. 

Stretching southward from the cape to 
the very horizon was a large body of 
water, which always buoyed the men of 
the Greely party with the hope that a ship 
might reach them at any time during the 
fall and spring. 

A return trip of eight hours brought 
us back to our ship at Refuge Harbor. 
Our time spent in crossing the Sound 
with dog teams is of especial interest, 
since the party of Dr. Isaac Tsrael Hay: 
in 1861 consumed about 31 days in pass- 
ing from shore to shore. Had the Greely 
party been equipped with dogs and some 
reliable Eskimos, all might po: ly have 
crossed to Greenland successfully and 
been saved by living with the natives, 

A few weeks later we crossed again 
with four dog teams. The tablet was 
landed in the center of the camp, where 
we bolted it securely toa 100-ton bowlder. 

The work completed, we covered it 
with the American flag. The next day 
we unveiled it in the presence of the 
mos, and told them to inform their 
children that the tablet must remain for- 
ever, in honor of the white men who died 
there so many years ago. They seemed 
to understand the object of our visit and 
the purpose of the tablet, and promised 
me they would always protect it (see 
illustrations, pages 700 and 706). 














IN SEARCH OF ‘THE MUSK OX 

A few weeks later we left the ship 
again, our objective being Eureka Sound, 
some 200 miles to the west, in search of 
that strange and most interesting animal 
of the Far North, the musk ox, more 


nearly allied to the buffalo than any other 


GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





living animal. It is of interest to scien- 
tists to know that the range of this animal 
extends to the very edge of the Polar Sea, 
just as far north as land goes, where it 
lives during the darkness of the long 
night upon wind-swept areas covered 
with frozen grass and moss. 

Upon our visit to Cape Morris Jesup, 
the northernmost point of land in the 
world, distant 380 nautical miles from the 
North Pole, we found great herds of 
these animals roaming the hills; in fact, 
they range all through northern Green- 
land, Grant Land, and Axel Heiberg 
Island. Their enemy is the white wolf, 
whose tracks are seen wherever musk 
oxen are found. 

After struggling with deep snow and 
reaching Victoria Head with considerable 
difficulty, we emerged upon the smooth 
ee fields of Flagler Fiord. over which we 

galloped merrily toward the pass leading 
pein een the high mountains of Ellesmere 
Island to Bay Fiord. 

As we proceeded through the valley of 
Tllesmere Island's western shores, we 
encountered a huge glacier coming down 
between the mountains at right angles to 
the course of the valley and blocking it 
almost completely. [-took-a-shoo and 
Na-ko-tehee-ah, who had passed through 
the valley in 1g10 and 1911, were as- 
tounded at the rapid advance of the gla- 
cier, which agrees with our observations 
of every other glacier from 76° N. to the 
edge of the Polar Sea. 

With difficulty we succeeded in squeez- 
ing between the face of the glacier and 
the slope of the hills. Great blocks of 
ice, continually falling from the face of 
the glacier into the narrow pass, so terri- 
fied the Eskimos that twice they aban- 
doned their dogs and sledges and scram- 
bled up the side of the mountain. 

At the other end of the glacier we low- 
ered the sledges with ropes, harnessed the 
dags, and, with a sigh of relief, drove 
westward. We all vowed never again to 
attempt the pass, but to proceed home 
over the Ellesmere Island ice cap, at a 
height of 4,000 feet, rather than tempt 
fate. 

We emerged upon the slippery ice of 
Bay Fiord in a gale of such violence that 
our dogs and sledges were repeatedly 
blown sideways for hundreds of yards at 

















THE “BOWDOIN IN NORTH GREENLAND GSD 





Photograph by Donald B. MaeMillan 





AN ESKIMO GIRL AT HOLSTENSBORG, GREENLAND 


She wears over her shoulders an elaborate homemade collar of open beadwork. Her blouse 
is of brightly striped, imported mat l and her trousers of hairy sealskin. Her red-and-white 
boots are also of sealskin, with the hair removed, and decorated at the top with geometrical 
patterns of colored skin. Holstensborg, a picturesque town just above the Arctic Circle, over- 
looks a fine harbor. Its four or five Danish houses occupy a common inclosure, to the west of 
which live the Eskimos, The entire population numbers 300. 





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THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPITIC Soc 





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702 


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703 


TOL THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph hy Donald B. MacMillan 


ROUGH ‘SLEDGING ALONG THE 





* REID GLACIER 

The condition of the sledging surface is the main factor in estimating the load of a team. 
For the average sledging surface met with on a long spring trip, 80 pounds to each dog is a 
good load. But the strength of the driver—who must often struggle to save the sledge from 


destruction—the qualities of the sledge itself, and the distance to be traversed are also to be 
considered. 





THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 


atime. It was a fight to regain the north 
side of the fiord, where we planned to 
camp for the night. 


EXCITING CAPTURE OF AN ARCTIC 
WOLF 


THE 


The next morning our dogs galloped 
westward before a strong wind to a better 
sledging surface lightly covered with 
snow, upon which we discovered many 
fresh tracks of polar bear. During the 
next few hours we had many a mad race 
following these trails, the dogs being 
much excited. 

Nothing happened, however, until about 
noon, when one of the men looked back 
over his shoulder and descried in the 
distance an animal following our trail. 
It proved to be an enormous snow-white 
wolf. As there is only one specimen of 
this animal in any museum of the world, 
I was anxious to add it to our trophies. 

Since wolves are wary—in fact, the 
most difficult animals in the North to 
bag—it was a problem how to accomplish 
our purpose. .\s we lived largely on the 
country during our spring trips, we were 
always equipped with a seal screen, used 
in stalking seals sunning themselves on 
the ice. I suggested to NKa-ko-tchee-ah 
that we place the screen in the middle of 
the trail, that he crouch behind it with 
loaded rifle. there to await the wolf while 
we drove on (see page 708). 

The ruse worked to perfection. \When 
we halted our teams, the wolf squatted 
on his haunches about a quarter of a mile 
away, but when he saw us drive down the 
fiord, he immediately jumped to his feet 
and followed, walking deliberately up to 
the screen, probably mistaking it for one 
of the many hummocks of ice dotting the 
surface. 

When the animal was within 20 yards, 
the boy fired. The wolf wheeled, bit 
savagely at one of his hind quarters, and 
leaped backward along the trail. The boy 
fired again. The wolf rolled completely 
over, jumped to his feet, and again started 
off. At 50 yards he dropped. | im- 
mediately sent hack Koo-e-tig-e-to with 
a dog team to bring up the kill. 

When the two boys rejoined us, | was 
astounded at the vitality of the animal, 
for the first shot had laid hare the heart 
and liver and should have killed it in- 
stantly, My measurements showed that 











705 


it was 6 inches higher at the shoulder 
and 6 inches longer than our largest dog, 
and weighed at least 125 pounds (see 
page 710). 

While we were examining the wolf an 
exclamation of “Ta-Koo!”, by Ii-took-a- 
shoo, called our attention to a herd of 15 
musk oxen grazing upon a bare patch of 
grass about half a mile up a small valley 
leading from the sea ice. We immedi- 
ately headed for the nearest point of land, 
and there pitched camp to await a more 
favorable light for obtaining a series of 
motion pictures. 

This was the real object of the western 
expedition. Hitherto no one had ever 
obtained motion pictures of this strange 
animal, which scientists claim has come 
down to us from a period of 500,000 
years ago. 

The next noon the sun shone brightly, 
offering a favorable opportunity for our 
work, With empty sledges we proceeded 
cautiously up the valley to the spot where 
the animals were seen the day before, but 
they were gone. 


E-TOOK-A-SHOO TRACKS A 
MUSK OXEN 


HERD OF 


E-took-a-shoo immediately quartered 
the ground in every direction with his 
sharp eyes and examined every track, and 
in a few moments announced that the 
animals had gone over the tops of the 
highest hills to the west. 

Not a track could he seen, and it was 
with reluctance that the two Eskimo boys 
and | consented to follow him. 

\iter traveling an hour we ascended a 
high hill and E-took-a-shoo called for 
binoculars. \fter scrutinizing the land 
to the west, he declared that he could see 
the whole herd sleeping quietly on the top 
of a distant hill. 

Upon reaching the base of the hill, 
where the animals were sleeping, we 
tethered some of our dogs to huge bowl- 
ders, knowing that, when the fight began, 
they would do their utmost to break from 
their harnesses. 

It was necessary to have the aid of a 
few dogs to hold the musk oxen at bay 
while they were being photographed. 
Since these animals charge with great 
rapidity, we selected five of the most 
active dogs—those thought capable of 
avoiding sharp horns. 








i) 


* 

* 

~ 
* 
* 
* 
+ 

an 


KkKKKESE 
KaAKKKE 





THE GREELY TABLET BEFORE UNVEILING: CAPE SABINE (SE 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


Photograph by Donald B, MacMillan 





? ALSO PAGE 700) 


This memorial to one of the most tragic chapters in the history of American Arctic explo- 


ration is 


northerly monuments in the world to heroism and to international scientific cooperation. 


of Peary’s huts is also on Cape Sabine. 


On reaching the crest of the hill, the 
huge beasts were in full view. We re- 
leased the dogs from their traces, and 
they shot away at full speed. We. in con- 
trast, seemed to plod at a snail’s pace, 
carrying the heavy motion-picture camera 
and the extra magazines. 

The great, shaggy, black masses in- 
stantly jumped to their feet and formed 
a circle, heads out, tails in, and horns 
lowered (see pages 695 and 711). 

When I arrived, I noticed that nearly 
all of the animals facing us were rubbing 
the sides of their heads between their 
forelegs. They had never seen dogs or 
men, and probably thought we were a 
band of wolves. In fact, a white wolf 
seated on a neighboring mound was an 
interested spectator of the whole ensuing 
performance. 

When attacking musk oxen in 1909 on 
the northern end of Greenland, I noticed 
that, upon our approach to the herd, the 
bulls repeatedly dropped their heads and 
scraped the ends of their horns upon a 
bowlder in their midst, as if sharpening 


more than 700 miles above the Arctic Circle and is, therefore, one of the most 


One 


them for an attack. But the practice of 
rubbing their heads on their legs puzzled 
me for some moments, until 1 concluded 
that they were rubbing away the frost 
formed about their eyes by the conden- 
sation of their breath in cold weather. 
They were thus able to see their assailants 
more clearly. 


THE AUTHOR MAKE 
PICTURES OF 


TIE FIRST 
MUSK O 


MOTION 






In several books on the Arctic, I have 
found elaborate accounts of how musk 
oxen exhibit the intelligence of a well- 
trained company of soldiers, forming into 
a perfect hollow square and charging in 
turn into the enemy. My motion pictures 
show that they are simply a huddled mass 
without formation. They charge without 
order, but always retreat immediately to 
the herd, as if fearful of being cut off 
and surrounded by the enemy. 

Mothers and calves are not in the 
center, protected by an encircling line of 
bulls. All, even the little ones, face to- 
ward the point of attack. The very 


THE “BOWDOLN” 


NORTHLAND ANIMALS AND BIRDS, 


The artist, old Pan-ik-pah, was employed 


work in Greenland, in 1891, until his discovery of the North Pole, in 1909. 


old and is still active. 





young, however, repeatedly hide beneath 
the bellies of the mothers, being almost 
completely concealed by the latter's long, 
shaggy hair, which reaches nearly to the 
ground (see, also, page 695). 

A musk ox will charge with its head 
very close to the ground, catch a dog on 
its horns with a vicious thrust, and rip 
him completely open. I have also seen 
some toss dog's into the air and crush them 
flat with their big heads when they strike 
the ground. A dog, however, is rarely 
caught unless hampered by the musk ox 
treading upon his trace as he endeavors 
to get away. 

Musk oxen are covered with 

















a coat of 





707 





DRAWN BY A SMITIL SOUND NATIVE 





by Peary practically from the beginning of his 
He is now 03 years 





wool and long hair, which must furnish 
perfect protection eyen in temperatures 
as low as 75° below zero. ‘They feed 
upon wind-swept patches of grass during 
the winter months, and, when all grass 
and moss are cropped, they wend their 
way through deep snow to other favorite 
feeding grounds. | have found them 
seeking food in snow a foot deep, pawiny 
it away with their hoofs and removing it 
with their noses, 

All seem to keep in fine condition, even 
in severest weather. We have killed them 
in temperatures as low as 50° below zero 
and found their paunches filled with great 
masses of frozen grass, 





708 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





A SEAL SCREEN, WITH KOO-E-TIG 





TO BEHIND IT, ON THE ICE (SEE TEXT, PAGE 795) 





raphs by Donald fi. MacMillan 





A FRONT VIEW OF THE SE. 


Though the Eskimo is adept at hunting with his own weapons, it was P 
effective equipment for winning their livelihood more easily. 


who gave them 





THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 


Incidentally, musk- 
ox meat is considered 
to be the most deli- 


cious in the Far 
North. It tastes a 
bit like good beef, 
and, in the opinion 


of some, like mutton. 
\pparently as large 
as a good-sized buf- 
falo, the animal is 
pitifully small when 
the shaggy coat is re- 
moved. 


PAINFUL SLEDGING 
OVER TITE ICE CAP 





The Eskimos, hav- 
ing no desire to re- 
peat their experience 
undergone between 
the face of the glacier 
and the mountain, 
eagerly adopted my _ - 
suggestion for a re- 
turn trip over the top 
of the ice cap of 
Ellesmere Island, a 
route taken by us in 
1914 and 716, 





We soon encoun- 
tered snow of such 
depth that we were 


compelled to exchange 
all of our fur clothes 
for woolens, the heat 
from our exertions 
in lifting and pushing 
the sledges being al- 
most unbearable. 
Covered with perspiration and with un- 
derclothes wringing wet, we toiled pain- 
fully through the valleys and up over the 
high hills. 

We plodded on and upward for three 
days, hoping to find better conditions. 
Dogs and men were exhausted at the end 
of each day. 

Finally we encountered one steep snow- 
covered hill, which stopped the two 
younger boys completely. E-took-a-shoo 
and I, having better dogs, succeeded in 
reaching the summit, and wondered if the 
others could possibly make it. 

These primitive men, without books. 
schools, or written language, are fully as 
resourceful as the white man. They will 





A WHITE WOLF SHOT IN 


709 


Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 
REKA SOUND 





Only a few specimens of this species are to be found in museums of 
the world (see text, page 705). 


generally get out of a difficulty. [ could 
hear the boys yelling at their dogs and 
snapping their long rawhide whips, before 
their heads appeared over the summit of 
a distant rise. 

They had harnessed all their dogs to 
one sledge. Koo-e-tig-e-to was driving 
and lKa-ko-tchee-ah was walking imme- 
diately in front of the dogs, encouraging 
them by dragging under their noses a big 
piece of meat on the end of a string! 
Puffing and perspiring freely, they 
reached the top of the hill. 

The next day we encountered even 
worse sledging conditions. Thoroughly 
disgusted with our new route, we decided 
to give it up, count our three days’ work 


T10 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZIN 








KOO-E-TIG TO AND A DEAD WHITE WOLF, WITH THE ESKIMO DOG “GRANT” 








Photegraphs by Donald B. MaéMiltan 
E-TOOK-A-SHOO AND KOO-E-TIG-E-TO SKINNING A WOLF? BAY FLORD 
This wolf, shot by means of the seal screen (see illustrations, page 708, and text, page 705), 
was larger than a I-sized dog. The white wolf is more enduring, has a wider range, and 
passes an easier tence than any other Arctic animal. It infests Axel Heiberg Island, 
where its tracks mingle with those of musk oxen and caribou. 








THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 





MUSK OXEN OF BAY FIORD FACE THE DOGS 


Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 


AND CAMERA (SEE, ALSO, ILLUSTRATIONS, 


PAGES 694 AND 695) 





The mea 


winter weather, has been compared to beef and sometimes to mutton. 


against its protecting elders, 


as wasted, return to the head of Bay 
Fiord, and go home by the old route, in 
spite of the danger of falling ice. 


ESKIMO DOG OF THE FAR NORTH 
FRARS THE WATER 


THE 


The following two days are memorable. 
I have never known my men to be so com- 
pletely exhausted on any of our spring 
trips. The warm sun of the past few 
days had converted every compacted snow 
bank into a mushy mess and removed 
every vestige of snow from the river bed 
leading back to the face of the glacier. 
Not only did hare ground hinder progress, 
hut the water in the river bed was at 
times over the slats of our sledges. We 
were compelled to unlash, unload, and 
carry everything on our backs for miles. 

The Eskimo dog of the Far North is 
mortally afraid of water, and only under 
the stinging lash of the long whip will he 
consent to wade through it, especially in 
low temperatures. 

Cutting holes for our toes so that we 
would not slip, we laboriously worked the 
teams up the face of the glacier, thence 
along the bottom of the ice-covered ra- 
vine, between the face of the ice and the 














t of these remarkable animals, which keep in good condition throughout the severe 


Note the cali huddled 





mountain. From there on, it was a strug- 
gle to drive our sledges through the grit 
and gravel of the hills to the sea ice at 
the head of Flagler Fiord. 

Our nicely polished runners were 
scarred deep by the rocks, and the soles 
were ripped from our boots. 

With genuine expressions of relief we 
drove on to the hard ice of the fiord. We 
had not only left land and rocks behind, 
but were now in touch with seals sunnin 
themselves on the surface of the ice. 
Our dogs had not been fed for five days. 

Within an hour E-took-a-shoo killed 
two seals, and our dogs were filled to the 
neck. In the warm sunlight we sat con- 
tentedly round the boiling pot filled with 
hearts, livers, and tenderloins. At such 
times hardships of the past are soon for- 
gotten, and pleasures of the long trail ac- 
centuated, 

Upon reaching the mouth of Flagler 
Fiord, we were astounded to see a great 
expanse of open water, an unusual condi- 
tion at that time of year. It compelled 
us to travel on the ice foot close to the 
land, watching for an opportunity to 
cross to the solid ice of Buchanan Day. 

Our disappointment was somewhat 








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wey yoR|y “qd prewod Aq yleszoyoyg 








YUM SOALIp Bop sagen seyy op sted urppepyoryy 








raplh By Donald 1, MN 





Phot 


KA SOUND 








CONFRONTED BY REID GLACIER ON THE MUSK OX TR 





YUMON JSayIRy yous 07 sapot OOF t 
C(NWISE OWAMIAH “TAXV 
UELPETVOEIY " Prevod Aq ydessowy 





aout 


Ol Ur SYM UONsanh ayy or rans: 





rad 





PAISH|L 





LONI Or W904 


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SIL 





714 





THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 








ING FROM HER TUPIK 


Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 





(SEE, ALSO, PAGE 715) 


Ringed and bearded seals, besides furnishing this tent material, are useful in other ways, 


The skin of the ringed seal makes summer coats 
thong, seal makes an excellent sole for the kam 
meat of the seal is “the Eskimo’s turkey, his sta 
frozen seal’s liver his ice cream.” 








The skin tupik 





nd boots; the tough skin of the bearded, or 
¢, the boot of the Smith Sound native. The 
aple food; a seal's flipper is his entrée, and a 
of summer gives way in winter to an igloo 


built of stone, and in the spring, or when traveling, to one of cut blocks of snow. 





relieved by the first real signs of spring. 
The water was dotted with long-tailed 
and eider ducks, sea pigeons, and glau- 
cous gulls. 


KIGHTY MILES ACKOSS HARD, BLUE 1CK 
Making a bridge out of ice cakes 
brought to us by the incoming tide, we 
succeeded in reaching the bay ice, which 
stretched continuously for some 80 miles 
to the little Bowdoin, in Refuge Harbor. 
Once through the deep snows of Bu- 
chanan Bay, we drove rapidly over the 


ward, blue ice of Smith Sound, reaching 
Point Cairn, half a mile from the ship, at 
nidnight on June 1. 

Here again we were delayed by open 
water caused by tides swirling out of 
Kane Lasin. 

Leaving our sledges on the ice foot on 
the back side of the point, and leading 
our tired dogs, we ascended the rocky 
ulls surrounding the harbor. Upon 
reaching the familiar ice point 500 feet 
above the ship, the dogs wagged their 
tails and bounded away. 








ne 
gge 


THE “BOWDOIN” IN NORTH GREENLAND 1G 








IN A PRECARIOUS POSITION : REFUGE HARBOR 


Tn attempting to leave the harbor, the Bowdoin ran upon a pinnacle of rock at high tide. 
Realizing that at low water the ship would fall upon its side and possibly fill. an attempt was 
made to keep it upon even keel by running masthead lines to cliffs on the starboard side and to 
anchors imbedded in the ice on the port side (see text, page 720) 









: fel Le 
Photog s by Donald BR, MacMillan 
THE “BOWDOIN’S” RAIL LEVEL WITH THE WATER: REFUGE HARBOR 


When some of the ropes snapped, the vessel keeled to port and water poured over the rail. 
After relieving the ship of all possible weight, the members of the expedition pulled it over on 
the starboard side and finally succeeded in floating it (see text, page 721). 








THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 





Photograph by Donald ae Millan 


WA ARE PLAYING WITH 


PUPPIES ON FATHER’S BIG BEARSKIN 


‘The full-blooded Eskimo dog is one of the most affectionate of pets. 





The ship at this time presented a we 





come picture to us. The three snow 
houses upon her decks had melted away, 
the protecting snow wall had fallen 


down—sumimer had come. 

Every good day was now utilized in 
hunting seal and walrus, and in packing 
away meat for the following winter, since 
there was always a possibility that our 
harbor would not melt out and that the 
ship might be detained for a second year. 
Trips were planned to Littleton Island, 
15 miles to the south, where we often 


picked up 4,000 fresh eider ducks’ eggs 
in three hours (see page 685). 

Some 36 kinds of birds return to the 
Far North in the middle of May, and 
leave the latter part of September. They 
furnished us with an abundance of food. 

In July all southern slopes were green 
with grass and covered with flowe It 
is not generally known that, in this land 
supposed to be continually covered with 
ice and snow, botanists have collected 
more than 700 different kinds of flowers. 
In fact, flowers are found just as far 














THE “BOWDOIN” IN-NORTH GREENLAND 719 





> is 
Photographs by Donald B. MacMillan 


THE COMMONEST FLOWER OF THE NORTHLAND 


The starry blossom of Dryas integrifolia, of the rose family, is found almost everywhere in 
the Far North during the summer. It is white, with a yellow center. 


TAH-TAH-RAH TAKES AN 


This “costume” is not uncomfortable for Smith Sound children in 


August. 


north as land goes—380 miles from the 
North Pole. 


THE 330-DAY 


SHIP IS FREED FROM A 
‘ ICKh 


IMPRISON IN “DIE 





On July 29, we hoisted our flags and 
decided to make an attempt to break 
through the harbor ice, where we had 
been imprisoned for 330 days. I had 
carefully sounded every foot of the way 
and knew that the Bowdoin, with her 10- 
foot draft, could make it, if not prevented 
by the thickness of the ice. 

Just before we started off, the wind 
changed directions, and the harbor ice 
moved some 10 to 14 feet to the north. 
Our channel between the ice and the land 





Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 


ARCTIC SUN BATH 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE 


was thus so narrowed 
that, upon endeavor- 
ing to round a point 
of ice, we touched, at 
about high tide, upon 
a pinnacle of rock. 

In spite of all our 
efforts to dislodge the 
vessel with engine and 
strong lines, we stuck 
fast. 

Realizing that upon 
dead low water the 
ship would fall flat on 
its side and probably 
fill, it was necessary 
to hold it up, if possi- 
ble, upon an even keel. 
Therefore we ran 
masthead lines to the 
cliff on the starboard 
side, and to anchors 
imbedded in the har- 
bor ice on the port 
side. We succeeded 
in our attempt for 
about five hours, at 
which time the Bow- 









doin seemed to be 
completely out of 
water and perched 
upon a rock about 
midship (see page 
717). 





Then without warn- 
ing came a cracking 
and finally a snapping 
of the ropes leading 
to the cliff, and away 
went the vessel down upon her port side. 
The water poured over the rail and 
splashed against the cabin house. 

Everything, even two of my men, went 
flying off the deck and disappeared be- 
neath the water. Considering the fact 
that the harbor water was three degrees 
below the freezing point of fresh water, 
the unfortunates lost no time in coming 
to the surface and struggling to the edge 
of the ice. 

Realizing that the Bowdoin might fill 
on the succeeding flood tide and be lost, 
we relieved it of all possible weight. We 
dropped both anchors and 90 fathoms of 
chain under the bow, emptied all water 
tanks, and cleared the hold. As a further 





THE “BOWDOIN" IN NORTH GREENLAND 21 


precautionary meas- 
ure, we screwed up, 
as tightly as possible, 
all portholes on the 
port side and caulked 
the after companion- 
way. 

As a result of this 
fall, the Bowdoin 
crushed one plank on 
the port side. 

The next day we 
deliberately pulled the 
ship over on the star- 
board side. This re- 
sulted in two more 
crushed planks. but, 
since the bottom was 
reinforced with 22 
tons of cement, I 
knew that this injury 
would not materially 
affect the safety of 
our voyage home. 








A MILLION-TON ICE- 
BERG BLOCKS THE 
HARBOR 





On the morning of 
August I we suc- 
ceeded in floating the 
ship and, with 15 
Eskimos and 75 dogs, 
started for the harbor 
mouth. 

When we were 
within 30 yards of the 
entrance a huge ice- 


TWO YOUNG 


berg, weighing per- ‘The jittle Kop-a-noo of the I 
haps 1,000,000. tons, Grant Land, 

came. sailing with 

wind and tide and blocked the harbor 


completely. With a large ice-saw we 
worked for three hours upon a neck of 
ice impinging upon the berg. Then, at 
full speed, the Bowdoin bucked this 
neck, cracked it, and slowly worked out 
through the mass of drift ice beyond. 
At last we were free, having been pris- 
oners since September of the preceding 
year. 
The violence of the wind was such that 
we should have anchored under the first 
protecting cape. Glad to be out, how- 
ever, we bucked at full speed into a heavy 
head sea for 15 miles south to Etah. 








SNOW BUNTINGS 


Photograph by Donald B. MacMillan 





TAKEN IN 
HARBOR 


TILEIR NES 
AT REFUGE 





imos nests in northern Greenland and 


It is very musical during the breeding season. 


Nearly all of the Eskimos were sea- 
sick, with the exception of Koo-e-tig-e-to, 
who twisted a rope so tightly around his 
stomach that he could hardly breathe. 
Where the boy got the idea I do not 
know, but the drastic method proved 
highly efficacious. 

Anchoring at Etah, we found the Eski- 
mos busily engaged on the cliffs in net- 
ting little auks, which swarm there liter- 
ally in millions. Each time a native 
sweeps the air with a 12-foot dip net he 
captures from one to five birds. which he 
puts into a sealskin bag. These grace 
many a feast during the winter, when 





HARDY BLOSSOMS WITHIN 


This bed contains five varieties of blooms. 
nudicaule) is a nomad, being found e 
of the Polar ¢ at Cape Morris Jesup. 








boot padding, mattress, dishcloth, and towel. 
small sunflower in habits and apr 
southern cousir The rose family 
(Dryas integrifolia; see, also, page 719). 











they are eaten raw and uncleaned (see 
pages 680, 681, and 682). 

As we proceeded south, dropping our 
‘skimos and their dogs at different vil- 
lages, we encountered only one field of 
ice—in Melville Bay—which was easily 
negotiated. 

We coasted down the Greenland shore, 
calling at Disko, Egedesminde, Holstens- 
borg, and Godthaab. At the last-named 
post we were royally entertained. Here 
the Eskimos gave us a remarkable ex- 
hibition of their mastery of their kayaks, 
rolling over in them, hanging head-down 
in the water, and even spinning over 
and over. These men well deserve the 
reputation of being the most expert 














I2 DEGREES OF 


The bright Arctic, or Iceland, pc 
ywhere in tl 
Characteris 
nests is the Arctic timothy or alpine foxtail (Alopecurus alpinus), also used by the 
The Arctic arnica (Arnica alpina) resembles 
nee, and the alpine everlasting (Antennaria alpina), its 
also represented by the entire-leaved mountain avens 


THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE, 


Phot 





aph by Donald B., MacMillan 


THE NORTIL POLE 





py (Papaver 
Northland, blossoming even at the edge 
ic grass of the slopes where the little auk 
kimo as 

















boatmen in the world (see illustration, 
page 608). 

We left Godthaab for Labrador with 
the Round-the-World Flyers. We came 
across in two and a half days; the planes 
flew the 560 miles from Ivigtut in about 
7 hours. 

Our trip from Labrador to Wiscasset, 
Maine, was without incident, with the ex- 
ception of two gales of wind, one off 
Newfoundland, and the other off Hali- 
fax, Nova Scoti 

We reached Wiscasset on September 
20, and were greeted by 6,000 people who 
had gathered from all New England to 
welcome the little Bowdoin back to her 
home port. 





‘Tomato Soup that chefs try to equal 





How much is expected of this savory, steaming cup 
of tomato soup! 

At the outset of the feast it greets you, just when 
your appetite is most eager and expectant. Yes, and 
your taste is well-trained in good tomato soup. 
Campbell’s has set a standard your appetite remembers! 

When you lift the first spoonful to your lips, you will 
know. Know that this is the tomato soup you hoped 
it would be. The tomato soup that chefs try to equal. 
The tomato soup which people expect to be served 
where tastes are most critical. 





Campbell’s Tomato Soup! 


21 kinds 


12 cents a can 


We blend the best with careful pains 
In skillful combination, 

And every single can contains 
Our business reputation. 





Look for the Red-and-White Label 















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































The Bell Telephone Laboratory in 1884. From an old wood engraving published in the “Scientific American’ 


Winning nature’s secrets 


Every day that passes records some 
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winning new secrets of chemistry, of 
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the telephone engineer is a scientific 
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our physical environment and sets them 
to aid us in our daily lives. 

Forty-nine years ago the telephone 
was born in a scientific laboratory—a 
very small laboratory, to be sure, as it 





numbered in its personnel none but 
Bell and his assistant. As the Bell 
System has grown that laboratory has 
grown, and as the laboratory has grown 
the telephone has grown in efficiency, 
in distance covered, in numbers, in per- 
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marking progress in the telephone art 
that have come from the laboratory. 
Today the laboratory numbers 
among its personnel 3000 employees, 
more than half of whom are skilled 
scientists and engineers. Headed by 
a vice-president of the American Tele- 
phone and Telegraph Company, it is 
known as the Bell Telephone Labora- 
tories, Inc., and forms an indispensable 
department of the Bell System. 


AMERICAN TELEPHONE AND TELEGRAPH COMPANY 
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HOLDER TOP 
The stick is held by a 
threaded metal ring 
—no chance of its 
working loose. There 
are reloads for both 
Williams sticks, 


SETH S SOA 
“Eanc aue win Te 
WING “TICK. 

LATHE (ON THE Fl 
NT Y OF WATE 


DOUBLECAP 
This stick gives 
a firm, full- 
hand hold even 
when the stick 
is worn down 
toa thin wafer, 








= = = 
PER «4 REQU 2 
SET isso ; 
SAND RUS ViTH EN 


WORK Us LATHER 
BSE PLEN SOF Ww 


Brighten tomorrow’s shave 


by using either one of these 
two Williams Shaving Sticks 


HE is your choice of shaving- 
stick holders—each a gem of 
ingenuity. Here, whichever holder 
you choose, is one shaving lather— 
Williams! 

Williams is a rich, thick lather that 
bulks large on the face. Its wetness 
penetrates the oil film on the beard 
so that almost instant softening takes 
place. Its mild quality leaves the 
skin at the end of the shave feeling 
wonderfully softened and soothed. 


You'll see a decided improvement the 
first time you shave with Williams. 
It is made by shaving soap specialists. 
No wonder it gives a better shave! 


Choose one of these sticks today. 
Williams sticks are unusually long 
lasting and, therefore, economical. 





At once after you shave—pat on Agua Velva, the new 
Scientific alter-shaving preparation, A few drops keep the 
face like velvet all day long. We'll gladly send 2150 
drop test bottle FREE. Address Dept. 56, The J.B. Wil- 
liams Company, Glastonbury, Conn. Ifyou livein Canada 
addressTheJ.B. WilliamsCo., 


Williams 


















td.,St PatrickSr., Montreal 





























Chrysler 


Announces 
a New and 


Beautiful 
Coach 


*1545 


























CH RYSLER 





Chrysler dealers throughout the country are now 
making the first display of the new Coach 


alas 
N THIS NEW COACH, 


Chrysler gains another peak 
in its far-reaching development. 


To this day, Chrysler performance 
and quality remain unequaled, 
and the new Coach body matches 
and complements that perform- 
ance and quality. 


In beauty, in appointments and 
trim, and in the convenience 
which the practical motorist in- 
sists upon, this new Coach is as 
far ahead of present-day con- 
ceptions as Chrysler results are 
ahead of previous ideals. 


The Chrysler-designed body is by 
Fisher, richly upholstered in an 
exclusive and beautiful pastel 
blue and gray plush. 


In its accessibility and roominess, 
the Chrysler Coach marks a new 
trend—through the use of extra- 
ordinarily wide and convenient 
doors. 

The basis of its beauty is the 
characteristic dynamic symmetry 
which is successfully expressed 
only in Chrysler design. 


The result is the long, low, sweep- 
ing lines—the pleasing general 
effect—which today mean Chry- 
sler wherever they are seen. 


But, over and above new and 
smart Coach design, the Chrysler 
Six chassis offers outstanding per- 
formance, the finest of materials, 
the same high engineering and 
manufacturing ideals which have 
always characterized the Chrysler 
—on a basis of economy hereto- 
fore unknown in a fine motor car. 




















The Beauty in Sheet Steel Products is Permanent 


Furniture made of steel is not only beautiful when new—it stays 
beautiful through a lifetime of service. 





Its hard, smooth surface effectively resists dents and scratches 
and does not “check” or crack. The finish, whether dainty enamel 
or accurate duplication of beautifully grained wood, is baked on. 
A surface which shows no trace of the spilled perfume or other 
mishap which mars less durable material. A damp cloth is the 
only polish ever needed, 


Steel furniture is vermin-proof. It cannot swell or warp. Drawers 
and doors always open and close smoothly, no sticking or binding. 


For safety, long life, lasting beauty and service, sheet steel in your 
furniture, your automobile, your refrigerator and kitchen equip- 
ment and in many other uses, delivers satisfaction and economy 
to a degree not approached by any other material. 


SHEET STEEL 


TRADE EXTENSION COMMITTEE 
715 OLIVER BUILDING 
PITTSBURGH PENNSYLVANIA 














This free booklet will bring you many interest- 
ing facts about sheet steel, its many uses and 
its value and economy for you. Write for it. 














Pag) pat 
iis 
cA Very Different ic i Those Who Want the Finest 
| 





To discerning motorists, all that need 
be said of the luxurious new Willys- 
Knight Six is the fact that 7¢ has the 
only type of szx-cylinder automobile 
engine ever invented that actually and 
literally grows quieter, smoother and 
more powerful with use... That said, 
nothing need be OL a a ae 


WILLYS-OVERLAND, In To . . WILLYS-OVERLAND Sales Co. Ltd., Toron Cana 


Thee New 


WILLYS:KNIGHT ~ 
SIX 5.5 


WELL YS. OVER LAN D - PINE « MO T'O = ca RS 








Your hand and your pen 


are partners in the expression of your thought 


Waterman’s Ideal Fountain Pen is the choice of millions 
because it makes thinking and writing easier. There are 
no annoying hindrances when a Waterman’s is used— 
just a steady flow of perfectly written words, 


Made with different sized holders and different pen points 
to suit all hands and styles of writing. 


50,000 merchants have selected Waterman’s as the best 
pen to sell because they know it satisfies all who buy. 


Ask a nearby merchant to show you Waterman's lip-guard models (see 
illustration) with mottled, black and cardinal holders, then select a pen 
you like, at a price you will be glad to pay. 


Watermaris{deai Fountain Pen 


L. E. Waterman Company, 191 Broadway, New York 


Boston : Chicago : San Francisco : London : Paris : Montreal 





Mottled 
with Gold Filled Lev- 
er, Clip and Narrow 
Band at Lip of Cap. 
Holder exact size. 
No. 01855 - - - $6.50 














jurroughs 


~ \s 


y 
J 


— 


aa =! | 
‘ee Quality 
~My 






“Burroughs Machines 
~ were never built sim- 
ply to sell but, first of 
all, to do their work 
perfectly; then they 
were made to last 
indefinitely—then 
of course their sale 
could not be stopped.” 


BURROUGHS ADDING MACHINE COMPANY 
6280 SECOND BOULEVARD 
DETROIT, MICHIGAN 





ADDING - BOOKKEEPING = CALCULATING AND BILLING MACHINES 





Keeps Them Out 


For Years and Years 


WAT the fly—and mosquito—by all means 
when he isin your house. But better still, 
keep him out with Jersey Copper Screen Cloth. 


Jersey lasts for years and years because it is 
copper 99.8% pure —the most durable metal 
in common use. And due to a special 
Roebling process, Jersey is stiff and strong. 
It can be drawn tight and will stay tight with- 
out stretching or bulging. 


By using Jersey Copper Screen Cloth for your 
window, door and porch screens you elimi- 
nate for years to come the trouble and expense 
of replacement. Even under the severest cli- 
matic conditions along the seacoast and in 
the tropics Jersey Copper Screen Cloth, heavy 





THE 


Trenton 


grade, will give you many years of satis- 
factory service. 


You can buy Jersey in many widths and 
meshes—but 16 mesh is recommended by the 
United States Public Health Service, as coarser 
will admit mosquitoes. It comes in either 
bright or dark finish—the dark being practically 
invisible and always uniform in color. 


‘There is probably a merchant or custom-made 
screen maker in your locality who will give 
you samples of Jersey Copper Screen Cloth 
and quote prices. If you cannot obtain it, 
write us, and we will send you samples, an 
interesting booklet and tell you how it can 
be obtained. 


EW JERSEY WIRE CLOTH COMPANY 
634 South Broad Street 


New Jersey 


All Grades of Wire Cloth made of All Kinds of Wire 


Made of Copper 99.8% 


Pure 


Copper Screen Cloth 






IKE a faithful friend, the New Im \ 

iS J proved Gillette fulfills the promise \ 
of first acquaintance. In addition to ab- 
solute comfort in the actual shaving, 1t \ 
leads to a perfectly groomed appearance, \ 





so necessary in today’s affairs. | 
GILLETTE SAFETY RAZOR CO., BOSTON, U.S.A | 





The Gillette Tuckaway 
In Gold Plate, $6 
In Silver Plate, $5 








SCIENTIFIC 
WREN HOUSE 


It brings the wrens! 4. § 
compartment house for 
succeeding broods. 
Beautitul to hang. Green. 
Oak with cypress sh 
Gles. 28° high, 18" dia. 
$7.00 s 





BIRD BATH 
| Birds need water - That's | 
why they eat fruits. Here’s'} 
|). a scientific stone bath with \j 
| sloping sides complete) 
\ with stand 








ENJOY THEM, ON A SQUARE 
FOOT OR ON AN ACRE! 


Folks get an idea the song birds must 
have a park or vast estate... Oh, no! 
There’s a little pair of wrens, bluebirds, 
fly-catchers, just waiting for a home on 
the eaves of your house. Or onthe tree 
just outside. And they’ll WORK merri- 
ly all summer to rid you of mosquitoes, 
gnats, cut worms and insect pests!... 
These scientific houses pay in lastingness. 
They are the best a famous student of bird 
life can offer... Crated, ready to put up. 
Order by mail. Or write to Mr. Dodson 


JOSEPH H. DODSON, Inc. 


702 Harrison Avenue Kankakee, Ilinois 


Mr. Dodson is President of the American Audubon 
Association and Devoted Friend of the Song Birds 


QUEEN ANNE 
MARTIN HOUSE 
48 rooms for the beauti- 
fulmartins who colonize. = 
Scientific porch. White, 


Breen trims 


Of pine, 


copper roof 22-foot 
h .\ pole, 36x26x37 inches. 
60.00 


Send for Mr. Dodson’s / 
fascinating booklet: 
“Your Bird Friends and 
How to Win Them.” 
Things you should know »|| 
about the work of the 


| <4song birds! 


af 



















oo) 


MtARALARAS 


ED 


A 


BASAL WwR 


LuK% 


PAY R Ye RARARARARASADARLARPARARAD s 


Ixsplendid“DayLine”steamers 150 miles of historic and scenic 
—swift, modern, commodious interest that have no equal on the 


Hudson River by Daylight 


—add to the delight of this won- American continent. 


derfuljourney.Nomatterinwhich Rail tickets accepted, New York 
direction you travel, convenient to Albany, and Albany to New 
rail connections enable you to in- York. Also delightful one-day out- 
clude it asa part of your itinerary. ings. Write for illustrated booklet. 


Hudson River Day Line 


















5 









PYAR 2 















YARZAR ASE 


Dallas! (2: & 
@ 











ofoo-tpnprert 


= Foxe 
Ames | pee 


=, 


lotnzomo-zre0rtoEm: 
Keeslousvekaere 








6) 
































© R.M&N. & Co. 


The key to the open road 


Branches: Washington 


Before you start out on an auto- 
mobile trip, just plan it first with a 
RAND M¢NALLY Auto Road Map, 
known as The Official Auto Trails 
Map. Then you'll be sure of your 
way. 

No other single thing you can do 
will add so much to the enjoyment 
of a drive. You are certain of the 
easiest and most direct way. You 
know exactly the kind of roads you 
will find, the distance to 
be covered. 

In the booklet attached 
to every map there is 
also a set of maps of the 
cities you will have to 
cross, showing clearly 
the easiest way to pass 
through them. And a 
list of the best hotels, 
garages, service stations. 





It gives concisely a mass of ever- 
useful information. In Florida, for 
instance, it would tell you if you 
needed a license to go fishing — 
where the tourist camp sites are 
—the State motor laws... . 

RAND M¢NALLY Auto Road 
Maps cover the entire country from 
coast to coast. On sale for 35c each 
at bookstores, stationery stores, 
news-stands, hotels, garages and 
drug stores. 

The efficiency, conve- 
nience and exactitude of 
RAND MSNALLY Auto 
Road Maps is also typical 
of RAND M¢&NALLY 
globes, atlases and maps. 
You will find them 
adapted to all needs— 
on sale everywhere at 
reasonable prices. 


Ranp MENALLY & GomMieANY 


Map Headquarters 


536 S. Clark Street, Chicago 


270 Madison Avenue, New York 


Dept. T-11 


San Francisco . 


Los Angeles 








Approved by 
Good Housekecing Inst. 
ond 

Priscilla Proving Plant. 


—make any test 
you wish! 


T is an easy matter to keep your rugs 
thoroughly clean with the Sturtevant 

Model 15 Vacuum Cleaner. This 
cleaner does its work by air suction alone 
—cannot harm the nap and fibers of 
your rugs. It is gentle yet powerful 
enough to rout out all of that deeply 
embedded grit. 

This is not an extravagant claim. 
Run the Sturtevant over your rug: 
empty the dust bag; notice the quantity 
of dirt it has drawn up. Compare this 
cleaner with any other cleaner; make any 
test you wish. Not until then will you 
realize that the Model 15 actually does 
all that we claim—gets all of the dirt, in 
less time, with less effort. 

The Sturtevant comes complete with 
attachments to meet every cleaning re- 
quirement. Send for our booklet, “When 
Cleaning Has an Air.” 


iurlevan 
UTSLAIRITO WO RK 
B. F, STURTEVANT COMPANY 
HYDE PARK, BOSTON, MASS. 


Sales offices in all principal cities 





f 5 | 
wm \k« vj 
THE VOS€ REPRODUCING GRAND PIANO 
brings into your home theart of the world’s great- 


nists, with all their subtlety of touch and 
expression. 


Although the exquisite tone of the Vose is world- 
mous, the Vose price is moderate. 











We Challenge Comparison 


Write for Floor Pattern and Easy Payment Terms. 


Vose & Sons Piano Co., 146 Boylston St., Boston 




















EW mechanical features that make op- 
eration still easier, mowing still faster 
and durability even greater are found in this 
new model Ideal. It is the old, reliable Ideal 
with new features that make ir still better. 

It does the work of five men with hand 
mowers, rolls the sod evenly as it mows, 
and reduces mowing costs to a mere frac- 
tion of the cost with hand mower>. 


Ask our nearest dealer, or write for 
interesting literature, 


Ideal Power Lawn Mower Co. 
R. E, Olds, Chairman 
422 Kalamazoo St., Lansing, Michigar 
NEW YORK, 13-19 Hudson St. CHICAGO, LL EB. Hart n St. 


Dealers in all Principal Cities (128) 


IDEAL 


| Power Lawn Mowers 
Le, 
































“Next to 
myself 
I like 

‘B.V. D.’ best”’ 





“B.V.D.” 


Union Suit 
(Patented Fei 


Men’s $1,50 the suit 
Youths 85c 
“B.V.D.” 

Shirts and Drawers 
83c the garment 





Men's “B V.D.” Underwear 
in Fancy Materials at 
Various Prices 





The B.V.D. Company, Inc. 


New York 


Sole Makers of “B.V.D.”” Underwear 








Laer befre 
you leap! 


“Looking for the label” after you’re 
sorry won’t change it to “B.V.D.”! 


EMEMBER that no underwear without 
the red woven “B.V.D.” label is 

“B:V.D.” 
Assure yourself of that Famous Fit, Long 
Wear, and Cool Comfort which have 
kept “B.V.D.” the world’s most popular 
men’s underdress. 
To avoid those underwear “regrets” which 
rise so sharply with the thermometer— 


Get the underwear you ask for! 
Insist upon this red woven label: 





© 125 
The BV. D.. Inc. 

















Make a rich deposit in memory’s bank ac- 
count that you may draw on all your life; yet 
never diminish it. Diversify your knowledge 
by travel. Go to the Colorado Rockies, Go 
up and breathe deep of the rare health-laden 
air while the rest of the world goes by. A 
much-needed change and rest combined. 


If you wish to see more of the scenic West, 
Yellowstone and the whole Pacific Coast 
may be included in one thoughtfully planned 
tour at surprisingly low cost while reduced 
summer fares via Rock Island Lines prevail. 


Route of the ROCKY MOUNTAIN 
LIMITED and COLORADO FLYER to 
the Colorado Rockies and of the all-Pull- 
man GOLDEN STATE LIMITED and 
MEMPHIS-CALIFORNIAN to California. 
All meals in dining cars—other fast Rock 
Island trains west on convenient schedule. 
Widest choice of routes. Go one way; 
return another. Stop over anywhere. 


Rock Island Travel Bureaus in all principal 
cities are at your service. Avail yourself of 
the instructive Rock Island Travel Books. 


nail Rock Island 


coupon A (Colorado Way Lines 





isi vaa wed ing t0 Yellowstone 





LS 








Mr. L. M. ALLEN, V. P. & P. T. M. 
Rock Island Lines 
750 La Salle Station, Chicago 
Please mail me, without charge, your publication on 
O California 1 Colorado 0 Yellowstone 
Check the book or books you desire 




































7 a : 
4th cAnnual 


Granl S Cruise de Luxe ae 
~ Mediterranean 


Limited to 400 Guests—tess than Half Capacity) 
By Specially Chartered Magnificent New 20 000-'T 


Cunard S.S. “SCYTHIA”. 


Sailing January 26, 1 
The Cruise of the “* Scythi as become an 
annual classic, In every respect it is unsurpassed, 


Egypt—Palestine 

Madeira, Sp: il Algiers, Tunis, Constantinople, 
_ Greece, Ital; ‘a, Monte Carlo, France, England. 
with spacious decks. 
uNges, vera elevators, gymnasium, comm 
dious staterooms: uz Water and large wardrobes: 
bedrooms and suites with private baths, The famou: 

| Cunard cuisine and service. (Only one sitting for meals.) 
without extra cos 5 wita- 
‘Berengaria,'? or Cunard Line Steamer. 

Jarly reservation insures choice of location. 


Also EUROPEAN TOURS—Frequent Departures 


F RAN K TOURIST CO. 


2 Fifth Avenue, New York 
AUBankof America. Los Angeles 582 MarketSt... San Francisco 
219 So. 15th St. Philadelphia 
(Ast. 1875) Paris Cairo 


da 





London 


ray, 





. “Niagara to the Sea” . 
Old Quebec still broods in the sunset 


glow of her illustrious past. Nowhere 
else can you behold with your own eyes 
what met the sight of men three centu- 
ries ago. 

A journey down the picturesque St, Lawrence 
to Quebec is like a trip to yesterday. You can 
begin your journey at Niagara Falls, Toronto, 
| Rochester, Alexandria Bay, Clayton, Montreal, 
and return the same way. From Quebec you 
can continue on to the glorious Saguenay. 


Send 2c postage for illustrated booklet, “Niagara to the 
Sea,” including map and guide, to JOHN F. PIERCE, 
Pass. Traffic Manager, Canada Steamship Lines, Led., 
107 C. S. L. Building. Montreal, Canada. 


A Thousand Miles of Travel 
A Thousand Thrills of Pleasure 


CANADA STEAMSHIP LINES 





























| 
! 














Good Buildings: De eserve Good Hardware 












“Now that’s what every screen door nee 
—a Corbin Screen Door Check 


HE grocer’s boy knows of screen 

doors that “C-r-e-a-k” upon his ar- 
rival—that “Bang!” after his departure 
—and so do you! To leave them open 
seems his one delight. To close them 
swiftly, without creak or bang, is the 
sole vocation of Corbin Screen Door 
Checks. 
What is the use of having screen doors 
unless they 
screen—unless 
they shut— un- 
less they close 


New York 





The practical advantages of Corbin Screen Door Checks are 
told ina booklet. Write for it or ask the Corbin dealer, 


P. & F. CORBIN "gt NEW BRITAIN 


The American Hardware Corporation, Stec 
Chicago 


without annoying slams, bangs and 
creaks? 
This summer, why not hang the old 
family fly-swatter onthe walland Corbin 
Screen Door Checks on every screen 
door? It is the only way to make screen 
doors useful as well asa joy to live with. 
The Corbin dealer in your town has 
them in stock. They are inexpensive q 
and you can 
easily attach 
them your- Hl 
self. 


—* 











Philadelphia 








oe 





See er rer ee 





































Natural 
“Permanent 


Daffodil Plantings 


A most inspiring new id 
the 





in garder 
aturalizing of Daffodils where th 
quire absolutely no care after planting. 
left undisturbed they i in numbers 
and heauty, fi J The easi and 
most econom way of growing flowers by 
the hundreds thousands 


1925 the Last Year to Import 


By ruling of the Federal Horticultural Board, no more 
Dafiodils may be imported after this season. Make sure 
now of having these beautiful spring flowers in your. gar- 
den for years to come by ordering now while true, J 
quality Dutch bulbs are still available. Flere are 

ieties selected for size, beauty, and hardness at special 
mnport prices 



















v 
and 


































Poeticus Ornatus. Im- Blood Orange. Wid: 
proved Poet's Nareisst creamy yellow’ peri 
Pure white, star-shaped cup brilliant reddish 
flowers; shallow cup of orange, exquisitely {rilled. 
yellow, edged red. Emperor. One of the 
Autocrat, Short, wide largest and finest Giant 
trumpet anil large per Trumpets. Deep golden 
anth; rich yellow through- — yellow. 

out Empress. A fine com- 
Evangeline. road, white panion to Giant Empere 
perianth and large, shallow pure, snowy white 





cup of palest lemon. anth’, yellow trumpet 

Collection NA—r1o bulbs cach, 60 in all.. $4.50 
Collection NB—25 bulbs each, 150 in all.. 11.00 
Collection NC—1: h, 600 in all. 39.00 


Above special offers good only until July 1. Order n 


Special ) 





bulbs ea 











pay when bulbs arrive in September, or take 5% discount 
for cash with order. — Com- 
plete directions for planting 


and care with every order. 


FREE—Bulb Book 


Elliett's Import Bulb Cata- 
log for 19253 is the most com 
plete ever offered. ‘Tells best 









and casiest ways of wing 
Hyacinths, Tulips. Daffadils, 
Lilies, and many other bulbs, 
indoors and ont Deserib, 
thousands of varieties, 






tifully illustrated. 
cial. import pr 
until July 1. 


Gives st 
ices good 
Sent Tree. 











only 





Write for Catalog Today 
ELLIOTT NURSERY COMPANY 
583 Magee Bldg. Pittsburgh, Pa. 





H, 
Yea 
wi) ol 
ae a 


of all blown stemware bec 
k is this new creation possessing 
r 6 brilliance and beauty but the 
clear, ringing tone that is distinctly a Heisey attribute. 
Replete in the charm of the Jacobean period, it is 
embellished in_a beautiful two-tone etching featuring 
the exploits of the famous allegorical herome Diana. 


Dept N-3 AH. HEIS 











“How would YOu SCIEN 
casement windows? 


a trick to sereening 
d neatly. On¢ 
for example, ordmary sere won't do. 
They would be clumsy andin the way 
Higiin-trained men know just which type of 
sereen is best for the window door « 5 
and Higegin All-Met: 


me windows. 
nent windows, 






















MIGGI 


ALL METAL 
WINDOW SCREENS 


of doors 


and porches 


werndows. 


THE HIGGIN MFG. CO., 505 Washington St., Newport, Ky. 





“Mention the Geographic—It identifies you.” 


rile 
price 


fraid t0.9 
Sormhea’s 


vier 
needless vic 
An of Pyorthes 


Dental statistics show that 
four out of every five over 
40—and thousands younger, 
too—are victims of dreaded 
Pyorthea, Will you escape? 





Pyorrhea is a disease of the gums 
—not the teeth 


That’s one outstanding fact 
everybody should know. And if 
everybody did know it, the 
number of Pyorrhea’s victims 
would soon be greatly reduced. 


You may take splendid care of your 
teeth—brush them several times a 
day—and still get Pyorrhea. Once 
Pyorrhea secures a firm hold, pus 

ockets form, gums become weak 
and flabby, the teeth loosen and 
fall out no matter how white and 
sound they may be. 


Forhan’s For the Gums contains 
just the right proportion of 
Forhan’s Astringent as used by 


orhans 


FOR THE GUMS 


the dental profession in the treat- 
ment of Pyorrhea. It protects and 
preserves the gums, keeping them 
in a firm, pink, healthy condition; 
cleans and whitens the teeth, and 
keeps the mouth sweet, fresh and 
wholesome. If you don’t care to 
discontinue the tooth paste you 
are now using, at least start to 
brush your teeth and gums once 
a day with Forhan’s. 

Forhan’s is more than @ tooth paste; it helps to 
check Pyorrhea, Thousands have found it bene- 
ficial for years. For your own sake ask for For- 


han's For the Gums. All druggists, 35¢ and 6oc 
in tubes. 


Formula of R. J. Forhan, D. D.S, 
Forhan Company, New York 






















sect 
goth neglec! 
dgvands its coll 






Just as a ship needs 
the closest attention 
under the water- 
line, so do your 
teeth under the 
gum-line 











That’s O. K. 


Coffee without caffeine 


There is now a coffee your doctor will 
approve, whatever your condition. It does 
not affect the heart, nerves or kidneys. The 
caffeine is removed. 

Anyone may drink it without stint. One 
may drink it at night and sleep. 

The name is Kaffee Hag—pure coffee of 
exquisite blend. The finest hotels now 
serve it. Connoisseurs the world over have 
adopted it because of its rare delights. 

We open the pores and extract the caf- 
feine—that is all. All the favor and aroma 
are intact. The taste is not affected, for 
caffeine has no taste. All the quick bracing 
effects remain. Kaffee Hag is simply coffee 
at its best. 

All we eliminate is the caffeine stimula- 
tion. And few want that. Few drink 
coffee for its drug effect. Most drink coffee 
for the satisfying stimulation of flavor and 
coffee oils. You find these at their best in 
Kaffee Hag, 

Delicious coffee one need never fear. It 
makes all denial, all substitutes unneces- 
sary. 

Someone in your home needs Kaffee Hag, 
at some meals or all meals. Let that person 
try it. Send this coupon for a ten-cup test. 











Mail This Today for 10-Cup Free Sample | 


| NOFFEE tiesiDavenperukce | 
| HAG Cleveland, Ohio | 
| | 


| Name Hersaaed Lsiesy 2 SS, BIER RS ALS | 












ee ae 


ny i 








UT 
nn 
wie 





Your Vacation Home 


Bossert ““RAD/O”’ Bungalow. Big- $61 
gest Value Ever Offered ina Port- 


able Home of This Type F.0.8. BROOKLYN 














The RADIO Bungalow has living room, 12x12 ft., with 
big double windows on side and single window: 2 hed- 
rooms, 9x9 ft, with 2 large windows on different 
sides to allow for complete circulation of airs kiteher 





at hi Both frout and 
ow can Ne erect 


» skilled mechanics 


6x9 ft. with ; window, and 
doors glass pancled. The [it 
2 men in a day aid a halt. 
(quired. 

Here is an ideal way to spend your vacation 
cost of the RADIO Bungalow is paid hack the 
summer, in health and happiness 

Decide right now to benefit from the greatest of bung 
low values. Touses in stock ready for immediate ship 
ment. Write at once for order form and folder com 
pletely describing the RADIO Bungalow. 


LOUIS BOSSERT & SONS, Inc. 


Largest Lumber Plant in the East 
1313 Grand St. (House Dept.) Brooklyn, N.Y. 






















out of date, 
is quicker, 
and pro- 
The latest 
portable Corona has the stand- 
ard four-row, single-shift key- 
board. Corona Typewriter Co., 
Inc., 169 Main St., Groton, 


CORONA 








Before you decide Pra) 
on your su! 
European |, 
trip— 
Be sure to get this Booklet 


Thirty years of successful management assure 
you the utmost in travel economy, comfort 
and convenience, when you take Gates Tours. 

Send for our booklet, “How to see Europe 
at Moderate Cost”. It’s FRE: 


Gates Tours, Dept. A 





== 


zs Magnified 225 Diameters 


This is what the tip of a y’s leg is like 
when seen thru the 


ULTRALENS MICROSCOPE 


Any amateur can immediately start using his Ultr 
lens to examine the 


logue 


$7.50 Scientific 


for Com- Apparatus Corp. 
plete Outfit 


Prepaid. Dept. 301 Milton, Pa. | 




















ome out to Glacier National Park this summer. 

Climb up to mile high places and view a new and un- 
forgettable panorama every day of your stay. Ride horse- 
back over flower-bordered trails. Explore glaciers. Motor 
over broad highways, or in launches on snow-fed moun- 
tain lakes where fishing to talk about for a lifetime 
awaits you, Camp in the open. Or, just loaf and relax 
luxuriously in fine hotels or rustic chalets. 


Glacier 


NATIONAL PARK 


Open June 15 to Sept. 15 





You can travel to this million-acre Rocky Mountain playground, 
eastbound from the Pacific Northwest or westbound from Chicago, 
without change and without extra fare on the de luxe New Oriental 
Limited or other fine Great Northern trains. All-expense-paid tours 
of 1 to 7 days or longer and Burlington escorted tor 
free books or information on travel between Chic 
coma, Portland and Vancouver via Spokane, how to go to R 
Crater Lake National Parks, Alaska, California or The Orient. Any 
ticket or tourist agent,any Great Northern office, or A. J. Dickinson, . 
Passenger Traffic Manager, St. Paul, Minnesota. = ig ¥3 <<: 
GREEN 


GREAT NORTHERN 


Route of the New Oriental Limited Sse gmerien 


Finest Train to Pacific Northwest—No Extra Fare 




















Look Inside the ‘The Sign of the 
Piano for this Ubrlds Standard 
Trade Mark Peano detion 


Ask About the 
Piano Action—First! 


N° OTHER piat vt is as impor- 
tant as the no action. It gov- 
touch. It s tone, It is the 
nism that must stand up under 
c nt us 


Make s that the piano you buy b LENT Yiof fresh water—clear, 
equipped with the Wessell, N © = sparkling, pure—for a few cents 
the ccorld's st-price aday. That is what a Myers Water 
anil the : cs | System means to the owner of the summer cottage 
can piano makers si I —the country estate—and the suburban home. [ 

built by the oldest, 1s P " ‘Why put up with the obsolete gravity systems or 
ing makers of high-gr i I} springs when a Myers will give you running water 
Moreover; tle Weasel, Nickel & Gross | f{ in abundance—instantly—under any condition, 
i real assurance of piano For the bathroom—for the kitchen—for the 
this famous action is never laundry—for sprinkling, fire fighting and stock 
htinl worth, The watering, Myers Systems are the never-failing, 
(shown above) is economical water supply, Automatically con- 

stamped on ever Wessell, Nickel & tralled —Self -Starting—Self-Stopping—and Se 
Gross action Oiling. Service wires or private power and light- 
ing systems will provide current. Simple—safe 
WESSELL, NICKEL & GROSS —silent—and trouble-free. A style and size for 
every need. Write us direct for catalog and name 


Established 1874 New York City of our nearest dealer. 


THE F. E. MYERS & BRO. CO. 
106 Orange St. Ashland, Ohio 


When you Buy an Uprigh 
layer or Rennocluciig Piano~ Manufacturers, for more than fiftu years, 
th Eade —— A of Myers Pumps for Every Purpose, Hay 








Gross Piano Tools and Door Hangers 








“Mention the Geographic—lIt identifies you.” 









GERMAN ARMY OFFICERS’ 
FIELD GLASSES 


“Relief” 


a woman’s pen 


This small stub pen, of non- 
corrosive metal, is more widely 
used by women than any 
other pen in the world, 

Like every Esterbrook, itis 
made of metal as fine, with care 
as delicate, as the mainspring 
of your watch. 

Send for Free Sample Pen 
Upon request we will gladly mail you 
a free sample of the Relief’ pen. 
Address Department N 
Esterbrook Pen Mfg. Co. 
Camden, N. J. 






















Canadian 
Agents, 
Brown Bros., 
Lid. 
Toronto 


GURESTERBROOK &CO 







8 Power $9.85 Postpaid 


German War 4! 





Ge 
advantag: 







purchased at exceptionally 





nt_of German opti c 
from the Allied Repara- 
0 value 














any were 
mimnission 
Finest achromatic day 40 m. m. obje 
Dust and moisture proof. 'y Built 
e regardless of cost accor military stand- 







































All glasses We have 
. 50.000 pairs of this model ott 
ope aoe Suman cect 
der 08! ct ‘fund for any 
Always a FRESH ieee a paras ss 
Order your field glasses today 
HENDERSON BROTHERS 
Largest importers of field glasses in America 

Jg CA | 97 Federal Street Boston, Mass. 
















DUES RECOMMENDATION FOR MEMBERSHIP 


Annual membership 
in U.S § nual IN THE 


NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY 


y,andif atadis- The Membership Fee Includes Subscription to the 


e remit by New a e = 
draft, postal or National Geographic Magazine 


s order, 


PLEASE DETACH AND FILL IN BLANK BELOW AND SEND To THE SECRETARY 


To the Secretary, National Geographic Society, 


Sixteenth and M Streets Northwest, Washington, D. C.: 


I nominate 


Name and Address of Nominating Member 












for the Herrick 


VERY child in the home is a 
reason for the Herrick Re- 
frigerator. Even grown-ups like 
foods that are kept fresh and free 
from interchange of flavors. 
Herrick forced dry aircirculation keeps 
food fresh indefinitely. Herrick five pur- 
pose insulation and solid oak construc- 
tion keep the cold in and the heat out. 
Non-metal linings and removable 
drainage system help save food, ice and 
work. Herrick Outside Icing saves 
botherinsummer and ice in cool weather. 
Send for free Booklet ‘‘Correct Refrigeration” 


HERRICK REFRIGERATOR COMPANY 
206 River Street, Waterloo, lowa 


‘Food keeps BEST in the 


HERRICK 


THE ARISTOCRAT OF Se 


HERRICK 





















































For Ice or Mechanicat 
Refrigeration 














Your Guest 


is Used to Shower Bathing — 


Will your home offer him this 


same shower convenience? 


ODAY a bathroom looks 

and is incomplete without a 
shower. To anyone used to 
shower bathing this incomplete- 
ness is very noticeable. 


Showers are really not expensive. 
There are SprakMAN Showers to fit 
every income. They can be installed 
without inconveniencing you and 
without fuss or bother. 


Have your plumber show you his 
SPEAKMAN Shower catalog. Select your 
shower from it. Remember that 
SPEAKMAN Showers are made by a con- 
cern that has been identified with the 
plumbing industry for nearly 60 years 
—one-half of this time specializing on 
showers. Tell us if you wish us to send 
shower literature. It will be forwarded 
promptly. 


SPEAKMAN COMPANY 
WILMINGTON, DELAWARE 


SPEAKMAN SHOWERS 


AND FIXTURES 








ROOK || 


rHE m\\\ 
p ELOWER? | 


wil 
\ G 





The Who’s Who of Water and Woods 


Vacation necessities for country home, hotel, or camp—the best of 
introductions to nature for young and old 


The BOOK OF 
WILD FLOWERS 


By Wituiam JoserpH SHOWALTER 
and Other Authorities 


242 full-color portraits of flowers and plants by 
Mary E. Eaton, the world’s leading painter of 
S& full-page color microphotographs of 
by E. J. Geske; many monotint engrav- 
250° pages. 


REPARE for Summer with this “Who's Who of the 
Wild Flowers.”” It enables you to identify easily 
and name the 242 varieties of wild plants—including 
State flowers—which pique our curiosity in yard, 
ide. Accompanying these remarkable 
flower “biographies” which tell, in a 
ting narrative, the things we want to 
know about wild plants—how they grow and what pur- 
pose, as medicine or food, they serve. It is an unfading 
bouquet of the spring and summer Howers. Invaluable 
in the home—indispensable for schools. 












the 









The BOOK OF 
FISHES 


Game Fishes, Food Fishes, Shellfish, and Curious Citizens of American 
ean Shores, Lakes, and Rivers 


By JouNn Oxtver LaGorcr and 
Other Authorities 


Mlustrated with full-color portraits of 92 fishes 
in under-water action, painted by Hashime Mura- 
yama; 134 other engravings; 244 pages. 


ISHERMEN, big or little, will find lasting delight 
in the remarkable color plates which should enable 
identification of their catch, however unusual. 
ng fish biographies and chapters on fishing 
are by such authorities as John Oliver 
Miami Aquarium; Charles Haskins Townsend, 
+ Hugh M. Smith, former U. S. Com- 
missioner of Fisheries; L. L. Mowbray, N. Y. Aquarium; 
Dr. John T. Nichols, Natural History Museum, and 
FP. W. Wallace. The ideal gift for sportsmen. 









Set a New Standard for Nature Books 
Royal Octavo (10 x7 in.) ; Molloy-made art binding in brown, bronze, and gold; S4 each, post- 





paid in U. S.; foreign mailing, 2: 


» Booklet in full color on request. Obtainable only from the 


National Geographic Society, Washington, D. C. 


Nationa, GrocrapHic Society, Washington, D. C. 


For enclosed $___ 


copies of Book of Fishes. 


dO regs ne, 
6- 


copies of Bock of Wild Flowers; 

















1885 $5.00 Pair 
Hand Engine Turned Design 


14 Kt.Rolled Green Gold Plate 


1494 K_. $3.50 Pair 
Eng-Turned Design, White Gold'Center 


Krementz Links 
Make ‘Wonderful Gifts 


Seeking a worthy gift for the 
young graduate?) You could 
look far and long and not find 
anythingas fittingandservice- 
able as a pair of Krementz 
links. Designs are pleasing, 
original and exclusive with 
Krementz. As any jeweler will 
point out, the finish (both 
front and back) is the finest 
known to the jeweler’s art. 
Quality and construction permit 


each pairto be guaranteed to wear 
a lifetime or replacement free. 


You may see a variety of designs 
at the berter dealers. Look for the 
name “Krementz”—it is stamped 
on the back of each. Write us for 
booklet and names of dealers near- 
est you. 

































This X-Ray 
shows tooth 
socket 
destruction by 

pyorrhea 


Beautiful teeth 


must have this 
double protection 


ROTECTION against decay 

above the gum line and protec- 
tion against pyorrhea underneath 
the gums—this is the double safe- 
guard that white, lovely teeth need today. 
Through the aid of the X-Ray, dental sci- 
ence has discovered how quickly the in- 
fection of pyorrhea spreads to the root 
sockets which support your teeth. Pyor- 
thea must be checked—if the teeth are 
to be saved. 

Pyorrhocide Powder is the dentifrice 
recommended by dentists for its double 
protection to teeth and gums. Its cleans- 
ing powers keep your teeth shining white. 
Its tonic and stimulating qualities 


correct bleeding gums 
strengthen tender gums 
harden soft gums 


ITS effectiveness in helping to restore, 
as well as maintain, gum health is due 
largely to its medica- 
tion with Dentinol, a 
healing agent used by 
the dental profession in 
the treatment of pyor- 
rhea, 

Use Pyorrhocide 
Powder daily—see your 
dentist regularly—and 
you can avoid pyor- 
thea. The economical 
dollar package contains 
six months’ supply. At 
all druggists. Send for 
free sample and book- 
let on causes and pre- 
vention of pyorrhea. 


FREE Sample 


t 
1 

1 

THE DENTINOL & PYORRHOCIDE CO., Inc. { 
(Sole Distributors) i 

Dept. B-2, 1480 Broadway, New York City. H 
Send me free sample of Pyorrhocide Powder and | 
booklet. ! 
Name _____. ' 
1 

' 

i 

1 

i 


Address... 






Deaf? A post-card brings 
joy of good hearing again 


Amazing Invention enables deaf to hear instantly 
Sent on Ten Days’ Free Trial 


Some folks imagine that deafness is merely a 
personal annoyance. But it’s far more than that. 
It ruins the disposition, upsets the nerves, and 
taxes the health. 

Now science has proven it is needless for many 
to remain deaf. A remarkable little personal hear- 
ing aid has been perfected by group of New 
York scientists. Immediately gives enjoyment of 
good hearing even to very poor ears. 
immediate—there is no waiting—no delay—no dan- 
ger. You hear at once while using it—clearly, 
distinetly, naturally. 


Results are 








The inventors are so sure you will be elated with 
this wonderful little discovery that they offer to 
send it to you without a string of any kind—for 
ten days’ free trial. No red tape—no deposit—no 
C. O. D.’s of any kind. To take advantage of this 
liberal trial offer, simply write to the Dictograph 
Products Corporation, Department 1301-H, 220 
West 42nd Street, New York City. In justice to 
yourself, please do this now. 

lf you have lost hope through other methods, we 
are even more anxious to have you try this remark- 
able little invention; and there is nothing for you 
to lose. Simply send name and address now. 








Hear Ye! 


Hear Ye! 


Lovers of Coffee 


THE COFFEE PROBLEM !S SOLVED! 
A CUP OF HOT WATER, ONE TEASPOONFUL OF 


ANaskrrglons 


DELICIOUS INSTANT COFFEE 


SUGAR AND CREAM TO TASTE. 


EACH CUP TO ORDER AT TIME OF SERVICE 
WITHOUT TROUBLE OR: FAILURE—UNIFORM QUALITY GUARANTEED. 
Send 10c for Special Trial Size. Recipe Booklet Free. 

G. WASHINGTON COFFEE REFINING CO., 76 Varick Street. New York 








CLARK’S 6th CRUISE 


AROUND THE WORLD 


128 DAYS, $1250 to $3000 

Including Hotels, Drives, Guides, Fees. ote. 

From N. ¥. Jan. 20, by specially chartered sumptuous new Cunard oil, 

burning ‘Laconia,”* 20,000 tons, including Havana, Panama Canal, 

Los Angeles, Hilo, 25 days in Japan and China, including Peking, 
nila. Java, Singapore, Burmah, option 18 days in India, Cairo: 

Jerusalem, Athens, Naples, Riviera, with stop-over privileges in Europe. 


CLARK’S 22nd CRUISE, JAN. 30 


me MEDITERRANEAN 


By specially chartered new oil-burning Cunard ‘“Transylvania,”" 17,000 
tons, 62 days’ cruise. 15 days in Egypt and Palestine; Lisbon, Tunis, 
Spain. Athens, Rome, Constantinople, Riviera, 3600 to $1700." includ- 
i Hotels. Guides, Drives, Fees, etc. We expect to carry 600 to 700 
passengers on each cruise. 
July 1 Cruise to Norway and Western Mediterranean; 53 
Days, $550 up. 
Originator of Round the World Cruises. Longest experienced cruise 
management. Established 30 years. 


FRANK C,. CLARK, Times Bldg., New York 

































Ata Moment’s Notice 
You Can Serve— 


a King, Welsh Rare 
ja Newburg, Vienna > 
Spaghetti au Gri 
Corned-beef Has! rown Bread, Plum 
Pudding, Date Pudding. and other del- 
icavies if you have a Purity Cross Chefservice assortment on band, 
One serving each of the above together with one tin each of 
Purity Cross Giant Peaches, Mammath Bartlett Pears, Extra 
Fancy Golden Bantam Corn, Extra Tiny Delicate Deviled 
Ham, and Ham with Chopped Olives sent direct by express pre- 
paid for only $5.29 ($5.89 West of Mississippij. 
These Purity 
ever before 
plowsed 


The Purit 





if you are not more than 
Department 





Cross Model Kitchens, Inc. 
Orange, N. J. 











id Whatever Sour Questonj—be it the pronunciation of~ 


Fascista, the Spelling of a puzzling word, the location of Esthonia 


the meaning of soviet, realtor, vitamin,elc., this Supreme Authority 


contains an accurate, final answer. 
Regulor and india-Paper Editions 


407,000 Words 2700 Pages 6000 Illustrations 
& C.MERRIAM CO., Springfield. Mass. 





Write jor specimen pages, prices, etc. and FREE Pocket Maps per Geographic 





DENVET™=GATEWAY 


Stop-over 
in Denver 
allowed 
on all 
one-way or 
round-trip 
tickets 


rail trips: Georgetown 


CHICAGO OFFICE: 610 Hartford Bldg. 


Take the two-day Auto Circle Trip to Rocky Mountain National Park, 
over Fall River Road to Grand Lake, returning over Berthoud Pass 
and thru Denver's Mountain Parks. Visit the Glacial Region. Take 
the Echo Lake Trip to the Mount Evans Region, going via Lookout 
Mountain and returning thru beautiful Bear Creek Canyon. One-day 
Loop, Moffat Road, Platte Canyon and Royal 
Gorge. Sixty other trips by rail and auto. Length of time you can 
stay is the only limit to what you can see and do in Colorado. 


TOURIST AND PUBLICITY BUREAU, Denver Chamber of Commerce 


Write for 
Free 
Colorado 
Vacation 
Booklet 
to plan 


your trip 
514 Seventeenth St., DENVER, COLO. 

















Onoto | 
theInk Pencil 


An exceptional 
writing instrument— 
Simple as a pencil, but 
writes with ink. Has an 
iridio-platinum point that 
will write smoothly and 
clearly for a lifetime. An 
Onoto never hesitates 
writes the instant it 
touches the paper. May 
be carried in any position 
with safety, as it cannot 
leak. For milady’s hand 
bag and a man's pocket; 
long or short; black or 
red; from $3 to $5 









ted 


THOMAS DE LA RUE & CO., Ltd. 
450 Fourth Ave., New York 


| No ink és guste so good as Onoto Ink 
\ 



























"> this Summer 
ad eae 
Colorado, Utah, \ 
Yellowstone, California ‘ 


ae 









The Wes 
Louis and 


ANDING SCENIC WAY WEST 


2029 














Does Work of 
Five Men 





The Moto-Mower is a compact, easily 
operated, power grass cutter. Simple to 
control. Starts, stops and turns corners on 
its own power. Cuts as much grass per 
day as five men with hand mowers. Fast, 
practical and economical for large and small 
areas Send today for catalog and prices. 


THE MOTO-MOWER Co. 
3244 E. Woodbridge St. Detroit, Mich. 








more 
pleasant 

more 
thorough 


eases to be an un- 
when you Jet Sani-Flush 
It makes the porcelain 


a task 
clean it for you. 
ce new. 


and hidden, unhealthful trap. De- 
stroys foul odors. Makes the toilet sani- 
Won't harm plumbing connections. 
Sprinkle Flush in the toilet bowl— 
follow directions on the can—and flush. 
Keep it handy in the bathroom. 
Buy Sani-Flush at your grocery, drug or 
hardware store, or send 25c for a full-sise can. 


Sani-Flush 


Reg US Pat on 


Cleans Closet Bowls Without Scouring 





Tue Hycienic Propucts Co., Canton, mtd 











you'll discover them in an 


“AUTO- KAMP” TRAILER 


WRITE any 
FOR FULL 
DETAILS 


model 
AUTO-KAMP 


3525 SHERIDAN AVENUE 





BRIGHTEN UP YOUR ROOMS 
By Changing Pictures Often 
It is so easy to hang pictures when you use 
Moore Push-Pins 
Glass Heads—Steel Points 


Moore Push-less Hangers 
“The Hanger with the Twist” 


You will enjoy changing them around often and 

jing new ones. ¢ fine tool-tempered steel points 

pater the wall at a proper angle to support heavy 
weights, 


10c. Pkts. Everywhere 
Moore Push-Pin Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 











The only belt with the Patented 
Comfort Feature, which com- 
bines absolute comfort, perfect 
trousers support, and prevents 
curling and binding at the sides. 


ca.) @ne) | 
THE B ELT on men 


Handsome Jewelry Buckles. Many beautiful 
leathers and finishes. At all the best dealers. 


The Perkins-Campbell Co. 
















New York Cincinnati Chicago 











THIS MAGAZINE IS FROM OUR PRESSES 


JUDD & DETWEILER, INc 


Master Printers 


ECKINGTON PLACE AND FLORIDA AVE. 


WASHINGTON D.C. 
















Generations before lead 
in anti-friction 





lead in the form 






rendering 
man. Down through the 
ages, it has fought the 
elements in its mostim- 
portant work of saving 
the surface. 











Friction 


HERE'S a fight going on in this picture. 

The man is winning, but at a terrific 
expenditure of physical energy. Every time 
he tugs and pulls, friction does its best to 
hold back the runners of his improvised 
carrier. Friction was one of primitive man’s 
worst enemies. 

Today man has taught friction its place, 
has made it his friend. Not only does fric- 
tion, by transmitting power, help to trans- 
port you from place to place; but by mear 
of pulleys, belts, gears and friction clutches 
it enables you to turn your dynamos, print 
your newspapers, make your shoes, and do a 
thousand and one other things. 

Yet even today, friction in the wrong place 
is man’s enemy. The points at which fric- 
tion is not desired are those where parts are 
supposed to slide or rotate. These are known 
as bearings. They must be a little tolerant 
because a shaft slightly out of true plays 
havoc in a high-speed machine. 





How man fights friction 


Tn 1839, Isaac B. Babbitt of Boston, Mass., 
invented a metal alloy which, when cast into 
bearings, would not only resist high pres- 
sures and the wear of rapidly rotating shafts, 
but would also conform to the play of a shaft 
without breaking. 

From his first formula, many different 
types of bearing metals or babbitts have been 





How lead helps 
man control it 


developed to serve different purposes in in- 
dustry. 

Lead is an important metal in the anti- 
frictional alloy business and thousands of 
tons of it are used eve ear. Among other 
advantages it is the cheapest of any metals 
that could be used for this purpose. 

A complete line of babbirt metals is made 
under the well known Dutch Boy trade-ma 
Among those most generally used are Dutch 
Boy Phoenix Metal, Dutch Boy Heavy 
Pressure Metal, Dutch Boy Genuine Babbitt 
Metal, and Dutch Boy Perfection Anti-Fric- 
tion Metal. These bearing metals are expertly 
designed to perform every type of service. 

In addition, National Lead Company 
produces under the Dutch Boy brand, red- 
lead, linseed oil, flatting oil and solder. This 
company also makes practically every form 
of lead product used by man today. 

Write to our nearest branch for 
information on babbitt metals, 
or for information about any 
other uses of lead in which you 
may be interested. 


NATIONAL LEAD COMPANY 


New York, 111 Broadway; Boston, 131 State Street; Buffalo, 116 
Oak Ser Chicago, 900 West 18th Street; Cincinna Free- 
man Avenue; Ch; and, 820 West Superior Avenue: 2 
‘ancisco, 485 California Street 
Pa., 316 Fourth Avenue; Philadelphia, 
IT, Lewis & Bros. Co., 437 Chestnut Street. 






























John 





























here such men work, 
play and live 


In the good hotels, in the fastest of 
the ocean liners, on the Twentieth 
Century or the Florida Special, wher- 
ever successful men play, work or live, 
you will find Banister Shoes. 


Not that these shoes are essential to 
success. But they are the particular 
choice of many men who have reached 
the topmost places in their various 
walks of life. 


Such men insist on life’s best as their 
right—on comfort and good appearance 
in all things. 


For eighty years Banister has made 
shoes for such men. They make them 
for you now. 
Tf you don’t know where to buy Banister 
Shoes, it would please us to tell you of 
a shoeman near you who sells them. A 
line from you will bring our prompt reply. 


JAMES A. BANISTER COMPANY 
Newark, New Jersey 










BANISTER SHOES 


Since 1845 the choice of Gentlemen 


















OFFICIAL 
GOVERNMENT 
OBSERVATORY 
AWARDS 


At Geneva Observatory, Swit- 
zerland: In 1924 accuracy 
test Longines obtained first 
prize of series and ten first 
and second prizes. In 1923 
Longines were awarded 
one firstand ten additional 
first and second prizes. 


At Neuchatel Observatory, 
Switzerland: Since 1905, 
Longines Watches have re- 
ceived 365 awards in Inter- 
national accuracy contests. 
During 1924 Longines re- 
ceived in accuracy contests 
seventeen first prizes. 

At Kew Teddington Observa- 
tory, England: Since 1910 
Longines Watches have re- 
ceived 132 accuracy awards, 
won in International Con- 
tests. During 1918 accu- 
racy test Longines made 
the World’s record for best 
performance, Since 1919 
all Longines Watches sub- 
mitted passed with men- 
tion “especially good,” 


LY 


She 
























| NX 

















East of Suez-or West 


No matter where you are,you will find Lon- 
gines Watches for sale at the leading jewelers. 


Accuracy and beauty have carried the Lon- 
ginesWatch over the borders of all countries 
and into the lives of the men and women 
of every nation. For over fifty years the 
Longines Watch has been recognized as the 
“standard of the world.” 

Leading jewelers wearthem and recommend them 
eee will gladly show you the latest Longines 
models, priced from $35 up to $1000. And, in 
case of accident, repairs are prompt,—jewelers 
carry in stock a supply of interchangeable parts. 
Write to us for a booklet of styles and for names 
of jewelers nearest you. 






















Great 
Britain 


U.S. Naval Observatory, Wash- 
ington: Here watches are test- 
ed for accuracy before accept- 
ance for Governmentservice. 
After a six months’ accuracy 
trial. 144 Longines were 
passed and accepted for tor- 
pedo boatservice. Morethan 





those furnished by a// com- 
peting firms combined (since 
1916). In 1922 accuracy trial, 
nine out of the ten accepted 
were Longines. 

















AWITTNAUER COMPANY - New Yorx. MONTREAL. PANS, GENEVA 


ARTO BEE ORE SOD SESE ER BE LEE SEE SSG 





PRESS OF JUDD & DETWEILER, Inc 
WASHINGTON, D.C 


iz LOLA LOE LY LAVOE LAE LLP 





CRANE BEAUTY IN THE OPEN; CRANE QUALITY 


IN ALL HIDDEN FITTINGS 








Dignity and comfort blend as easily in 
the modern bathroom as in any skillfully 
arranged living room or library. 

The Tarnia bath of cream-white enamel 
on iron has a broad, flat bottom and 
straight sides to eliminate danger of slip- 
ping. It can be set in any position, a 
right or left corner, alongside a wall or 
in the open, as above. It is shown here 





cased in white and gold vitrolite; water- 
proof plaster, tiles or tile board can also 
be used. Three sizes, 5, 534 and 6 feet 
in length, meet all space requirements. 
Crane plumbing and heating fixtures are 
sold by contractors everywhere ina wide 
variety of styles at prices within reach 
of all. Write for book of color schemes, 
“The New Art of Fine Bathrooms.” 


CRAN 


Address all inquiries to Crane Co., Chicago 
GENERAL OFFICES: CRANE BUILDING, 836 S. MICHIGAN AVENUE, CHICAGO 


Branches and Sales Officer in One Hundred and Forty-eight Cities 
National Exhibit Rooms: Chicago, New Yort, Atlantic City, San Francisco and Montreal 


Work 
CRANE EXPORT CORPORATIO! 
CRANE LIMITED: CRANE BUIL! 








Chicage, Bridgeport, Birmingham, Chattanooga, Trenton and Montreal 
EW YORK, SAN FRANCISCO, SHANGHAL 
, 886 BEAVER HALL SQUARE, MONTREAL 





Crane Radiator Valve, No.231